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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Rope seals

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2N Paul - SK

02-21-2006 06:42:09




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Hi all,

Last night I picked up my new rope seals kit, and I'm a little puzzled by what I've found.

Poking through the archives I found a post by Dell in which he describes which seal goes where:

"p/n 8N-6701 (GREEN) for the upper rear crankshaft seal. p/n 8N-6702 (RED) for the lower rear crankshaft seal. p/n 8N-6700 (green) for the upper front crankshaft seal. p/n 8N-6707 (red) for the lower front crankshaft seal."

Here's my problem: only one of my rope seals has an obvious green blotch on the end of it - #2 in the pic above. (there are no colours on the ends hidden from view)

Could someone with a little experience with these matters enlighten me as to where each of the four roope seals pictured above belongs?

And yes, I've already ordered the new NAPA neoprene gasket for the front crankcase seal.

Many thanks for any assistance!

Cheers,
Paul

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OH Boy

02-21-2006 13:10:16




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 Re: Rope seals in reply to 2N Paul - SK, 02-21-2006 06:42:09  
# 4 in your picture appears to be the seal that goes around the steering sector arms on a 9N/2N model. There should be 4 of them.



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2N Paul - SK

02-21-2006 13:27:56




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 Re: Rope seals in reply to OH Boy, 02-21-2006 13:10:16  
Nope, just the one.

The entire "kit" contains six pieces:

- the four rope seals pictured above

- 2 gaskets, one for each side of the oil pan.

The mystery, it seems, thickens...



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ZANE

02-21-2006 09:20:47




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 Re: Rope seals in reply to 2N Paul - SK, 02-21-2006 06:42:09  
I always put them in and then rubbed a little oil on the seal so it would be lubriacted when the crank began to turn on it. I never did soak one???

Usually with the Ford seals no cutting was required. You definately don't want to cut it so that the ends are flush with the black or cap as this will not give any compression fit to the back side of the seal. I use a socket of the same OD as the OD of the crankshaft seal surface to seat the seals in the seal retainers.

It looks like by the pictures that one of the front seals is too long or one is too short. A too short seal will definately not do. Cut the excess off the long seal after it has been seated by lightly hammering it into place with the afore mentioned closely fitting OD socket. Oil the crank sealing surface good too before you lay the crank into the block and main bearings and after it is snugly in place you should be able to turn the crank with you hands.

Good luck, Zane

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Gaspump

02-21-2006 09:08:38




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 Re: Rope seals in reply to 2N Paul - SK, 02-21-2006 06:42:09  
Actually that is not surprising to me at all. Looks like a pretty common set of aftermarket N seals, those seem to appear a little on the rough side compared to most. The refered kit was a Ford kit and I last was able to purchase one like that sometime in the mid 1990's. The red/green marking and instructions not to be cut left a lot to be figured out too, they just would not work that way! As with all rope type seals you match each seal to the proper holder and carefully follow the manufacturers instructions for proper installation. Seals are designed to swell and then seat as the oil will swell them. With most seals, soaking them a few minutes in oil prior to assembly is adequate, many current seals will expand way too large to fit the holders if soaked any more than that. I prefer to use the actual crank to properly seat the seals, a seal setter would be best but few folks have access to them. Seals will not work if the sealing surfaces are not clean and smooth. Be sure the crank surface and the pulley are true and ready for seals too. FO-4 procedures are OK as well as some online sites for old Fords.

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2N Paul - SK

02-21-2006 09:15:27




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 Re: Rope seals in reply to Gaspump, 02-21-2006 09:08:38  
Thanks, Gaspump - from your experience, can you tell me where each of these is designed to go?

(ie. top rear crankcase seal, bottom rear crankcase seal, etc.)

PS - I don't plan to replace the top rear crankcase seal, the one that's got that aluminum(?) cover...



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