I have used the reducer as a thinner, and at one time I used a higher grade lacquer thinne in small quantity to thin it too. I use lacquer htiner to clean over both, but do test a small area first. That is important. I also noticed that if the paint hasn't fully cured it tends to remove the enamel fast. Fresh paint cleaned with lacquer thinner tends to de-gloss it too. After 7 days or so, the lacquer thinner doesn't dissolve the paint surface and it remains glossy if I need to remove dirt, oil, and residues. I am not too familiar with lacquer primer, but if it is the stuff in the spray cans, it is very sensitive to lacquer thinner. A safer cleaner over the enamel would be Naptha. I am fairly certain that it does not leave a micro thin oil residue...but again, don't take my word as gospel. Test a small area out first. Naptha is a safer solvent to use if you have doubts. Tack cloth: I very lightly and with minimal pressure, wipe the area with a tack cloth. I suspect that when I wiped the Ford script on a fender set not too long ago, with heavy pressure and back and forth motion with a tack cloth; that caused the alligatoring and crinkling. I had to go through a process of sanding with 400 to 600, wiping with lacquer thinner, and then re spraying that area to blend the repair in with the rest. It turned out great BTW. Use the tack cloth as a method to lift the dust but not to rub it hard it. Light pressure and minimize the use of it. Tack cloths are handy. Another option on bare mtal is lacquer thinner on a knap free well washed and old soft terry cloth rag. Old t-shirts are good. Underwear, especially the blends don't work too well. And, my wife wonders about me when I raid her drawers and she's missing items! :) LOL! I hope I have been of some help. Al English is really knowledgeable about this too. You may want to consider posting a message to him to verify my process. I'm not sure he's the type to raid his wife's underwear drawer though when short of rags!! :) LOL again. 9N'er
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