9n Ford 12 volt conversion with the Pertronix igni

What you are saying is to eliminate the original-equipment ballast resistor by taking power from ahead of the resistor, directly from the ignition switch, and also eliminating the ceramic "converting resistor" that has been installed into the lead from the original ballast resistor to the coil?

My comments are:

If you have a "12-Volt square-can" aftermarket coil, you still need "Dell's Secret Current Limiting Resistor" of about 1/2 Ohm @ 20 Watts to keep the coil from overheating, and failing prematurely.

With the history of these coils, it seems they just don't take the 14.5 Volts, or so, on an alternator-equipped system over a long period of time without failure, if a resistor isn't used.

If you have the original "6-Volt square-can coil", NO WAY is it gonna take 14.5 Volts with NO OEM resistor or converting resistor intalled.

I simply have to conclude you have an aftermarket "12-Volt" coil, and have been lucky so far. I really do suspect coil life will likely be shortened without a 1/2 Ohm resistor in the circuit.

One really has to be carefull about giving "one size fits all" advice for these unique Ford ignition systems, because often folks don't know WHICH coil they have, OEM "6-Volt", or aftermarket "12-Volt", and the coils are NOT always marked!

The problem as I see it is your thinking the 12 volt conversion kit doesn't have a new coil provided with it as it does. The suggestion of running resistors between coil and battery are that your running a less than 2.5 ohm coil and or still running points. The pertronix instructions say run a resistor also but they are thinking that your running a less than 2.5 ohm coil. Let me know if this is not of your opinion also.

Perhaps that has now been remedied, and the coil you have is "OK" to run without a resistor, but who knows?

I guess, if it were mine, I'd go with the 1/2 Ohm 20 Watt resistor, to be on the safe side. So long as the tractor starts and runs well (has adequate spark) WITH the resistor, I can't see a downside to it. It should provide a margin of safety to the coil, AND the module, because if the coil shorts, it will typically "smoke" the module.

I have not yet done one of these Pertronix conversions on a front-mount, although I have used DOZENS of the Pertronix modules on other applications.

The Pertronix modules are GOOD, but they have one nasty quirk. If the ignition switch is left on by accident, without the the engine running, the module will keep current flow through the coil 'till the battery goes dead, heating the coil AND the module.

Pertronix makes a newer series of modules for common applications, called the "Pertronix II". These are "smarter", and switch off the coil current when engine rotation is not present. It doesn't look like they are offering one for the "N"'s at this time.

As you probably know Pertronix also makes a "round-can coil" conversion kit for this application. If I were installing a Pertronix on a front-mount, I would seriously consider that option.

However, on other applications, the red wire from the module gets FULL SYSTEM VOLTAGE, and the ballast resistor is in the circuit to the COIL.

I WOULD NOT have the original ballast resistor in the curcuit with your "12-Volt" coil, as it has about 1.6 Ohms resistance when warmed up, WAY more than needed. I would, however, use the 1/2 Ohm, 20 Watt resistor.

For what it's worth, here is how I would try this:

I agree with Bob. If you do not use the 1/2 ohm resistor in series with your "2.5 ohm coil", it will likely fail after a short time and take out your ignition module when it does. Don't fight it. Put in the 1/2 ohm 20W resistor. If it doesn't run well, something else is wrong. The coil current limiting resistor needs to be there.

The resistor at the junction box reads .6 ohms resistance..... .....I hooked it up that way instead of your suggestion of using the aftermarket ceramic resistor. You still think I'll have a problem? The tractor runs fine and starts immediately when the button is pushed....God I love those Pertronix modules.....

Anyway now I have the dilema that I'm reading 19+ volts to the Alternator side of the ampmeter and 12+ on the other side but the gage doesn't show any charge at all..... .scratch my head.....

For the guy that asked about my 312.....Its in my 36 Ford pickup I call "Desire"