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Like S.G. says, you need to get the source for the voltmeter over to the terminal that is switched "ON" and "OFF" by the ignition switch, or the voltmeter will remain on all the time, and put a constant (but tiny) drain on the battery while the tractor is not being used. ["Additional question:
One of you thought that the resistor on the junction box was not enough alone for my 2.5 ohm coil. Is that still your belief?"] If you are using an aftermarket "12-Volt" square can coil, on the contrary. I stated you would have a hotter spark using "Dell's Trick Resistor", as the OEM ballast reistor has MORE resistance than the .5 Ohm "trick resistor" If the tractor runs and starts well as it is, I wouldn't worry about it, the extra resistance is easier on the electronic module AND the coil. However, keep in mind if you should have some hard starting or missfire issues, changing to the 1/2 Ohm 20 Watt resistor, instead of the OEM ballast resistor MAY help, 'cause it will increase the spark output of the coil. As to the other tractor, replacement junction blocks are readily available and not too costly. However, will it be kept as-original 6-Volt, or has it been, or will it be converted to 12-Volt? That will determine whether to use the original junction block and resistor, or just a plain junction block.
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