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Pilot..... ..you write....."when I hook up the battery the terminal block resistor & ballast resistor get pretty hot"..... ..yep, resistors gitt HOT. (burnie, burnie) Howsomevers; resistors should ONLY gitt hot when the ignition switch is ON. You write..... ."This is the way I have it wired presently:" RIGHT HAND TERMINAL BLOCK POST
-12VDC Battery from ammeter
-one side of key switch
-lead to alternator LEFT HAND TERMINAL BLOCK POST
-other side of key switch
-lead to ballast resistor then to coil WRONG..... ...WRONG..... ...WRONG!!!..... ..you only list 2-terminals. The terminal board is a 3-terminal device, in the form of a "T". The top of the "T"-form of terminal board supports the "infamous ballast resistor". It should be intuitively obvious that oneside of the ballast resistor must go directly to the 1-terminal ontop of the squarecan ignition coil. We'll conviently call that the RIGHT terminal. Since oneside of the ballast resistor is connected to the RIGHT terminal, logically that implies that the other side of the ballast resistor is across the top of the "T"-form connects and connects to the LEFT side of the "T". Since the OEM ignition switch is a 2-wire/terminal device, it should be intuitively obvious that eather switch connection will perform the ON function when connected to the LEFT side of the "T"-form to the ballast resistor. For the ignition switch to function, it should be intuitively obvious that it must have a source of BATTERY VOLTS. And surprizingly enuff, the BOTTOM of the "T"-form is conviently connected to a common BATTERY source (usually the BATT terminal of the BIG starter switch) thru the ampmeter. Usually, the alternator/generator OUTPUT connects to the BIG BATT stud of the starter switch/solenoid..... ....Dell
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