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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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FarmerDawn Help

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SC goat farmer

04-21-2006 11:37:31




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I was browsing through the acrchives and saw a recent post form FarmerDawn about splitting an early Ford 8n.

I am stuck on getting the stering rods out.

Some say I need a specail tool.

I had planned on leaving the steering box mounted on the transmission and disconnecting the steering rods to split the tractor.

Where is the easiest point to disconnect those things?




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TheOldHokie

04-21-2006 18:45:23




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 Re: FarmerDawn Help in reply to SC goat farmer, 04-21-2006 11:37:31  
OK, hopefully 3 pictures is worth a lot more words.

This picture is were you separate the drag link (steering rod) from the steering box arms. This is a 9N but an 8N is basically the same. The big fork shaped tool is the pickle fork that Hobo hates. It is driven in between the two parts with a big hammer and it wedges the parts apart.

third party imageLink loading="auto" style="width:auto;height:auto">">Link

It also usually destroys the grease boot as shown in the next picture. That's a little exaggerated cause it was already ruined but it serves to illustrate Hobo's point.

third party image

This last picture shows a new tie rod end with a good boot on it - see why Hobo says find some other tool or method to separate the parts or be prepared to replace the boot?

third party image

The method Ultradog describes is to take the nut off the drag link end and wedge a metal plate between the tranny and the end of the bolt. Then strike the steering arm a sharp blow in the direction of the plate. That will push the rod end out of the socket. I've never tried it but it should work. Personally I'd only loosen the nut a couple of turns and leave it in place to protect the end of the threads on the drag link.

HTH,

TOH

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Dan

04-21-2006 18:44:56




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 Re: FarmerDawn Help in reply to SC goat farmer, 04-21-2006 11:37:31  
I removed the big nut on the steering box sector shaft ends, and CAREFULLY seperated the steering arms from the splined shaft using a large pickle fork. This way, I did not damage any rubber dust seals on the tie rod ends. They make a pickle fork that is big enough to straddle the steering sector splined shaft. Be aware these splines shafts are keyed, and are designed to have the steering arms slip over them in a specific position.

Good luck,
Dan

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TheOldHokie

04-21-2006 18:58:54




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 Re: FarmerDawn Help in reply to Dan, 04-21-2006 18:44:56  
A pitman arm puller is a lot safer for that job - no threat of damaging the splines. Run you about $15 at your friendly Manny, Mo, and Jack. Sears is a bit more but they don't ask questions when you bring it back in pieces ;-)

TOH



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Dan

04-22-2006 04:12:45




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 Re: FarmerDawn Help in reply to TheOldHokie, 04-21-2006 18:58:54  
I have a funny story about that. I bought a pitman puller specifically for this reason from that "Chineese Tool Store" as I hear it posted as, and the darn ends just bent out as I was applying force to it :-) I just happened to have a set of pickle forks handy, so I used that, and have a few times since.

You are right though - the right tool for the job is indeed a pitman puller (I guess I need to invest in a decent one now...)

Thanks for clarifying that.

Dan

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TheOldHokie

04-22-2006 05:06:43




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 Re: FarmerDawn Help in reply to Dan, 04-22-2006 04:12:45  
That must have been a real cheapy if the arms would bend. I've only had them snap off on the cheap forged ones. I have several - a smaller one for tie rod ends (Chinese I think) and a couple larger ones (KD and Craftsman) for pitman arms. I went through two Craftsman pullers getting the pitman arm off a Cherokee couple years ago and the sales guy at the local store always jokes when he sees me that they are sold out of pitman arm pullers.

TOH

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Hobo,NC

04-21-2006 16:55:53




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 Re: FarmerDawn Help in reply to SC goat farmer, 04-21-2006 11:37:31  
a pickle fork will damage the end and tear up the seal a pickle fork should only be used if you plan to replace the ends, pickle fork would be my last resort.



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FarmerDawn

04-21-2006 12:14:53




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 Re: FarmerDawn Help in reply to SC goat farmer, 04-21-2006 11:37:31  
third party image

Oh my heavens, SCGF, I fear you have asked for help from the wrong individual! (rueful LOL) I did split my tractor, but I'm not sure the way I did it is a way anyone should emulate. It involved taking everything apart, putting it all back together, and then taking it all apart again! (No, that wasn't how I planned it, but I did it wrong the first time! LOL)

I am be glad to help you in any way I can, but I sure hope you'll ask some of the others on this forum -- people who really know what they're doing -- for help. Meanwhile, here is a picture that might help get you started. See if it helps at all.

This is a picture before I took my tractor's front end apart. The place I disconnected the radius rod is at "a" (although you can't see it very clearly in this picture). The place I initially disconnected the radius rod was at "b," by pounding out the pins that go through the axle there. But I had to put it all back and undo it at "a" instead so there would be radius rods left (attached to the front axle) to hold on to when I "drove" it away (by pushing it with my hands). I disconnected the drag link at the tie rod at "c." A lot of others do it at the back end, but I couldn't get the tool in the tight space at the back and so did it at the front. Then I folded it backwards over the rear axle for while I work on the engine.

I don't know if any of this helps, but if I can take other pictures or something I am glad to, if you tell me what you need. But I do think you ought to check with Zane or Old or Dell or Dan or Hobo or The Old Hokie, because they know a LOT about splitting these Ns.

Dawn

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FarmerDawn

04-21-2006 12:18:39




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 Ultradog's method in reply to FarmerDawn, 04-21-2006 12:14:53  
I had just come online when I saw your post, and now that I have read the ones below I want to let you know that I used a method very much like Ultradog described, and it worked great. I think I messed up the rubber on one of the tie rods before I mastered the technique (learning curve and all that), but that sharp downward blow on the little arm between the tie rod cap and the wheel really does pop it loose. It's amazing. Several other guys talked about doing it that way, too.

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old

04-21-2006 12:12:25




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 Re: FarmerDawn Help in reply to SC goat farmer, 04-21-2006 11:37:31  
Yep pickle fork is the way to go and take it loose at the steering box, makes it eaier to more the front end away from the tractor.



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TheOldHokie

04-21-2006 12:03:52




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 Re: FarmerDawn Help in reply to SC goat farmer, 04-21-2006 11:37:31  
The pickle fork special tool is $10 at Sears. The Ultradog work around is $0. Disconnect at the steering box.

TOH



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SC goat farmer

04-21-2006 13:23:50




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 Re: FarmerDawn Help in reply to TheOldHokie, 04-21-2006 12:03:52  
You say to doisconnect at the steering box, but how?

I unbolted the large not at the steeriong box but the arm wouldnt come off.

Do you mean the entire steering box?



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Janice K. Allgood

04-21-2006 14:12:25




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 Re: FarmerDawn Help in reply to SC goat farmer, 04-21-2006 13:23:50  
The arm is on splines and does not come off easily. But you have the right place as far as I am concerned. You can pull the whole bearing hub off the side of the steering box, but this will leave it exposed to all the dirt and grit.



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FarmerDawn

04-21-2006 13:45:00




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 Re: FarmerDawn Help in reply to SC goat farmer, 04-21-2006 13:23:50  
SCGF, do you have an I&T FO-4 or a parts or service manual? That might help you specify which large nut you took off. If not, I can scan a picture of the front end so you can maybe explain which part you are trying to undo? Would that help?



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