Split 8n and clutch disc

I screwed the tubes off of the top steering rods (question I asked last week). One of the dust boots popped off; both were in bad shape. Looks like they needed replacing anyway (more and more things to fix). Also I figure I will now have to go back and adjust the steering due to removign steering rods there.

Once tractor split, clutch disc lining in the bottom of the bellhousing in pieces. Lots of greasy trash (linig) all in that compartment. Havent inspected anythign too closely yet. Also this is a 1949 Ford 8n.

Here are my questions...
1. Is this greasyness in the bellhousing normal? Parts arent greasy just coated with black powder but the bellhaousing is soaked what appears to be grease and not oil. I though it was suppose to be dry. 2. What are the cprrect part numbers I need to use for ordering? 7580 is the clutch release bearing.. definitely goign to get that, 7223 if for trasmission seal (will drain and replace that also), which part do I need or do I need both of these... clutch disc 7549 and/or 7550 Disc assembly? (in the drawings it looks like 7549 is the lining but 7550 is the disc with another lining, are there two of these? Do I need both? The drawings are not intuitive to me.
3. To replace the clutch disc, I need to remove the plate and gear assmebly, hub clutch release bearing (or is this on the back half of the tractor section with the clutch relase bearing), and the fork clutch release shaft? How difficult is it to remove all these parts? In the manual it shows the three pressure latches on the plate assmebly needing wooden wedges before removal. Not sure if I understand this?
4. Local tractor company or Ford/New Holland dealership best place to order parts?
5. Are the part numbers listed above sufficient to order by or are there other numbers and descriptions I need. I have the print out of a message a while back I posted in which diiferent part numbers were given to me in which I could substitute but wouldnt I rather go back with original part numbers?
6. Any other advice or insights before I proceed forward?

Input shaft seal is most likely the cause of yer "greasy" tranny cavity. Usually caused by "overfill" of hydro-tranny oil. (5-gals) Proper hydro-tranny oilfill is eazily established by removing the bottom bolt of the 6"-tranny dipstick plate and lett-itt drain down the outside of the tranny to a catch basin. Simple, eh? Overfill also greeses yer rearbrakes because yer rearaxle bearings are "splash-lubed" by the movement of the tractor down the road sloppin' the oil out the axle trumpet mouth and past the worn seals.

The "wedge" trick is NOT NEEDED iff'n you use the removed tranny input shaft to center yer clutch disc before you bolt-down yer clutch pressure plate. Inspect yer "special" clutch bolts for cracks (p/n: 350433-S, 5/16-18x0.77" shouldered bolt) and torque to 18ft/lbs.

As a general rule, slight wear grooves in the clutch pressure plate or the flywheel surface can be "ignored". A few "feathered" starts will match yer new clutch lining to the grooves. Yeah, you can have the flywheel re-ground at a machine shop but the pressure plate would haffta be replaced. But smooth clutch engagements on tractors are seldom a "requirement". Simple, eh?

tip: the clutch disc assy has an "off-set" splined hub. long side towards the tranny.

tip: check yer rubber tranny shifter boot for tear and leaks. ($5, cheap)

tip: check yer flywheel mounted starter ring-gear teeth edges for wear.

HTH..... ...Dell

I'd also suggest you check the release fork, shaft, and bell housing bushings. The bushings are only a couple of bucks, shaft $15, fork $15, pins maybe $5 each. Biggest issue is getting the PITA pins out of the shaft. Much easier to do now than resplit the tractor later. FWIW I just spent the weekend splitting my Kubota to service a dragging clutch. Turned out the $14 release fork I did not service 5 years ago was worn enough the adjustment was out of range. The bearing, clutch, and pressure plate I installed at that time were still fine. ALL new parts this time.

YMMV,

TOH

I will look again but I havent seen this identified in the manual.

I know where the other transmission seal is (on top of transmmisson; 4 bolts to remove and get to).

Speaking of that seal, why do I need to drain the compartment of transmission fluid if replacment is from the top?

Called around to local tractor company...

Clutch rebuild kit for ford 8n, all new parts, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, pressure plate, clutch disk, transmmiison seal... $165.

In stock.

Answered that question myself.

Any help on the others is still appreciated.