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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Clutch replacement

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SCgoatfarmer

04-28-2006 05:28:44




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Dell suggested using the input shaft as the guide tool for the clutch disc mounting and at the same time replacing that input transmisison seal.

1. I will need to drain the transmisison oil correct?
2. How much and with what kind should I replace it with? (Dell posted another link somewhere about filling it all the way up and then draining it to a certain point to get the right amount... does anyone still have those directions?)( I also have read the articles in the archives just wondering what others opinions are?)
3. How do I get the pilot bearing out? Do I pull it with a pick or do I unbolt the 4 bolts holding this bearing and plate in position?
4. I have reread the posts and the ford manual, please explian to me again why I do not need wooden wedges when locking down the pressure plate to the clutch disc? I do not understand why these levers operate the clutch.

Beleieve it or not I am making progress on this project. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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old

04-28-2006 08:32:52




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 Re: Clutch replacement in reply to SCgoatfarmer, 04-28-2006 05:28:44  
You could also use a Clutch aliment tool. Most auto parts stores have them for around $10-15. Thats what I used on my 2n/9n but it wouldn't work on another tractor I just did and had to use the inpput shaft



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Bob

04-28-2006 07:17:28




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 Re: Clutch replacement in reply to SCgoatfarmer, 04-28-2006 05:28:44  
"1. I will need to drain the transmisison oil correct?"

NO, the oil level is well below the front bearing


"2. How much and with what kind should I replace it with? (Dell posted another link somewhere about filling it all the way up and then draining it to a certain point to get the right amount... does anyone still have those directions?)( I also have read the articles in the archives just wondering what others opinions are?)"

Originally, 90-weight mineral oil was used. Modern 90-weight GL-1 oil is similar to that.

Universal Tractor fluid meeting FNH MC-134-D specs is a much thinner modern alternative. However, it will not work as well with a three-point lift with "issues" as the heavy stuff, and is more prone to leaking from less-than-perfect wheel, PTO, and input shaft seals. However, if you are in an area that gets bitter cold, the light stuff works better in the COLD.

If all 3 plugs have been removed, and it has had time to completely drain, about 4-1/2 gallons should about fill it. Remove one of the lower inspection plate bolts (by the tranny dipstick, or PTO lever) and slowly add oil until is begines to drip out the hole. Then, scribe a new "FULL" mark on the tranny dipstick, as this is enough oil, and the (slightly) lower level helps keep it out of the brakes.


"3. How do I get the pilot bearing out? Do I pull it with a pick or do I unbolt the 4 bolts holding this bearing and plate in position?"

Find a piece of round stock that is a CLOSE fit in the bearing. Pack the area ahead of, and inside the bearing with heavy grease. Start the piece of round stock into the bearing bore. Smack it with a hammer. As the rod quickly enters the bearing, the pressure of the grease will "pop" the bearing out. If it only comes out part way, re-pack with grease and repeat.


"4. I have reread the posts and the ford manual, please explian to me again why I do not need wooden wedges when locking down the pressure plate to the clutch disc? I do not understand why these levers operate the clutch."

When the levers are forced toward the flywheel by the throwout bearing, the action of the levers pulls the pressure plate away from the lined plate, against the force of the pressure plate springs, so the lined clutch disc is free of the flywheel and pressure plate, and can move around a bit. Using the wooden wedges keeps it in this position so the plate can be aligned using the pilot shaft, and then the wedges can be knocked out. Inserting the pilot shaft BEFORE tightening down the pressure plate bolt will keep the plate centered, and eliminate the step with the wedges.

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SCgoat farmer

04-28-2006 10:23:53




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 Re: Clutch replacement in reply to Bob, 04-28-2006 07:17:28  
Bob,
I believe that is everything I need to know.

Thansk a lot!



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Dell (WA)

04-28-2006 08:39:58




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 Re: Clutch replacement in reply to Bob, 04-28-2006 07:17:28  
Goat Farmer..... ....Bob has given you excellent advice ...except... you write....."3. How do I get the pilot bearing out? Do I pull it with a pick or do I unbolt the 4 bolts holding this bearing and plate in position?"

I think you miss-described (named) the parts you are concerned about. Bob is correct about the pilot bearing, which is in the center of the flywheel ...except... it is NOT held on by 4-bolts. UNDERSTAND? The only 4-bolt component is the tranny input shaft that you are removing to replace the inputshaft seal ($3, cheap) and use as a clutch centering device. It just comes apart, no muscle involved.

FYI.....as a general rule, the clutch pilot bearing, is bulletproof. You can test it by feel, rotating it with yer finger and feeling for grinding/gritty feel. Howsomevers; many replace the pilot bearing because its cheap and a hassle to gitt-too. Clutch pilot bearing: p/n: B-7600A, $3, (cheap). Same logic applies to the clutch throwout bearing, replace-itt because of the hassle. p/n: 78-7580-A $16, (cheap)..... ..Dell, the cheap

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SCgoat farmer

04-28-2006 10:16:10




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 Re: Clutch replacement in reply to Dell (WA), 04-28-2006 08:39:58  
Dell,

Replaced the throw out bearing. Howevevr, I am unsure how to get the pilot bearing out. I am going to go ahead and replace it too. It came in the kit.

Also, I know the 4 bolts for the input shaft you are talking about. I have a replacment gasket and seal for it. Once I unbolt it, does the input shaft easily comes out? Is there any parts in there I need to watch for? Also, I dont guess I need to drain the transmission due to the level should be below this upper compartment?

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Bob Harvey

04-28-2006 09:29:34




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 Re: Clutch replacement in reply to Dell (WA), 04-28-2006 08:39:58  
Might the 4 bolts referred to be the flywheel bolts? And, if so, not necessary to remove..see above.



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