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carb and oil question

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SCgoatfarmer

05-05-2006 10:57:28

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I have three sets of instructions and between the three, I think I have almost got the carb back together right. (Ford manual, YT instructions, and the Ford parts list)

1949 Ford 8n front mount 12 volt conversion.

The quarter inch diameter small piece of cotton with a hole in it that I asked about yetserday must be the small felt filter that is only shown in the 8n parts manual carburateor drawing. The throttle seal is a small black one. After adding these to the carb, I fianlly used evcery part off the rebuild kit. I assume this is finaly correct. Any thoughts?

Here are the other two questions I have...
1. The rebuild instrucitons state 1.25 turns out once seated. Ford manual says 3/4 turn out once lightly seated. Is seated all the way screwed down and then backed out either 3/4 or 1.25 turns? Or is seated lightly screwed in until spring tension is encountered and then turned out 3/4 or 1.25 turns? Same question for idle adjustment... what is meant by seated (all the way in and then adjust or slightly in and then adjust)? Which adjustment should I start with the 3/4 or 1.25 for the main adjustment?
2. Same old question asked over and over... I plan on getting staright 40 weight detergent oil and doing a couple oil changes once running again. Simple question is 10W-40 or 5W-40 the same thing? What notation do I look for? I didnt see anything other than 5W-40 and 10W-40 at Advance Auto.

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seated..John,PA

05-05-2006 11:11:36

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Re: carb and oil question in reply to SCgoatfarmer, 05-05-2006 10:57:28

Seated usually means that the needle valve should be just touching its seat.(home) Then back out 11/5 turns. Reajust after the engine starts and smooth it out.
Oil....10W30 will do. I always use straight 30 wt, though.

HTH

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SCgoatfarmer

05-05-2006 11:18:00

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Re: carb and oil question in reply to seated..John,PA, 05-05-2006 11:11:36

What will the container say on it if it is staright 40 wight oil?... SAE40HD?.. this is the only thing I could find other than 5W-40 or 10W-40.

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Jerry/MT

05-05-2006 13:42:22

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Re: carb and oil question in reply to SCgoatfarmer, 05-05-2006 11:18:00

SAE 40HD is straight 40 weight detergent oil That means it has a temperature-viscosity relationship as specified by the SAE for a 40 weight oil. Multi-vis oil, like 10W40 have a low temperature viscosity like SAE 10 weight oil at some low reference temperature and a high temperature viscosity like SAE 40 weight oil at some high reference temperature. At least that's the way I understand it. The multivis oils, like 10W40 are easier flowing when cold for easier starts and better oil flow when the oil is cold and provide the higher viscoity at the higher temperatures to protect the bearings at high temperatures.

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souNdguy

05-05-2006 11:42:14

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Re: carb and oil question in reply to SCgoatfarmer, 05-05-2006 11:18:00

Any oil with 2 numbers is a multi viscosity.. plain 30w or 40w oil will say sae 30 or sae 40... If you go with a multi vis.. I'd choose 15w40 at minimum,, as that is what CNH will sell you.. or with 20w50 if you have low-ish oil pressure.

If you have a worn engine and a warm environment.. 10w30 may not be suitable..

Soundguy

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SCgoatfarmer

05-05-2006 11:54:04

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Re: carb and oil question in reply to souNdguy, 05-05-2006 11:42:14

Usually my oil pressure is low and it is very hot here.

Therefore proabbaly SAE40, 15W-40, or 20W-40 would work huh?

Who is CHN?

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FarmerDawn

05-06-2006 03:38:49

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Re: carb and oil question in reply to SCgoatfarmer, 05-05-2006 11:54:04

CNH is the abbreviation for New Holland, the company that took over Ford tractor production. I forget what the C on the front is for. But it's got all the new stuff for Ford tractors now. :-)

This is a great thread!! I'm glad you're asking all these questions just as I'm about to learn what's inside my carburetor and rebuild it!!!! Thanks!

Dawn

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souNdguy

05-05-2006 12:06:33

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Re: carb and oil question in reply to SCgoatfarmer, 05-05-2006 11:54:04

With low oil pressure I'd avoid the 10w and 15w oils.. even though 15w40 may work. Id get 20w50.. ( not sure if you can get 20w40? ).. or in any case.. straight 30w or 40w..( heck.. some guys use straight 50w just to keep a few psi on tha gauge to get them a few more years down the road.. these old machines are forgiving as long as you can keep some positive oil pressure at idle..

Soundguy

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SCgoatfarmer

05-05-2006 12:13:41

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Re: carb and oil question in reply to souNdguy, 05-05-2006 12:06:33

Any thoughts on the carb rebuild?...

cotton filter with hole in bottom drain, black rubber seal on throttle pedal or what about needle adjustments with relation to what seating means?

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don b

05-06-2006 07:14:50

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Re: carb and oil question in reply to SCgoatfarmer, 05-05-2006 12:13:41

The small white felt doughnut is choke packing,not for the drain.The drain has bronze in it.The black neoprene seal goes on the outside of the throttle shaft.Both the choke packing and throttle shaft seal are held in place with small brass "cups'.These "cups" are not normally in the re-build kits. don b

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souNdguy

05-05-2006 12:24:22

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Re: carb and oil question in reply to SCgoatfarmer, 05-05-2006 12:13:41

I consider seated as .. well.. fully seated.. which is finger tight.. no need to deform threads.

I like starting with a turn or so out on each needle.. then tweak idle by rpm, and mainjet by ear using the hand throtle for a fast goose on to see if I am getting hesitation. I adjust the main jet 1/8 turn out untill I am not getting hesitation, but am not making black smoke. Then I take were out and hook up an implement to make her grunt.. if power is ok.. leave it be.. if it needs more power.. 1/8 turn out increments till power is there, with a minimum of black sooty smoke.

As for the carb packing.. Lots kits are different. TISCO kits are different than napa kits.. I'd have to see the stuff to decide where it went, if there was a quastion as to what went where. In my last kit.. the choke packings were felt.. and the butterfly packings looked like small black neophrine cup seals.. etc

Soundguy

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