8N Won't Start After Rebuild - Update

The only way to know is to take the valve tappet cover off and the spark plug out of #1 cylinder and watch as the engine is turned clock wise and see if the valves are both closed when the piston starts up on the compression stroke. You can tell when the piston starts up from the bottom of it's stroke by carefully threading a length of soft copper wire into the cylinder and feeling the movement of the piston. The spark plug hole is not over the piston but it can be felt if you hold your mouth just right.

You can feel the piston at the top of it's stroke eaiser and one of the valves should be closing and the other opening at the end of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of the intake stroke and you can determine if the valves are in time with the pistons this way.

If it is out of time you will have to take the front back off the engine and remove the timeing cover and correct the problem

Zane

TOH

• Hobby farm

• Hobby farm

When you check yer timing, puttchur thumb OVER yer removed #1 sparkie hole to verify compression when hand-crankin' the engine for 4-BTDC. crank in clock-wize direction. Now check iff'n yer distributor rotor is pointin' at the #1 nipple. (doesn't haffta be zackly pointin' but close is better'n 90 or 180 out)

Now its decision time. Intime? Outta-time? Me? iff'n outtta time, I'd swapp the sparkie wires on yer 5-nipple dist-cap. Timing is still and always 1,2,4,3 CCW but #1-nipple can be 8o'clock, 9o'clock, 10o'clock, 1lo'clock (ROCK) or 3o'clock, 4o'clock (GITT THE IDEA?)

Or iff'n yer sphincterly challenged, you can remove yer distributor and re-install it so the rotor is pointing at the #1-nipple at 11o'clock while yer crankshaft is #1-compression position.

Iff'n yer IN-TIME, put-in NEW DRY SPARKPLUGS. Theres sumptin about modern no-lead gas that leaves INVISABLE contaminates that leak yer sparkies off and they won't sparkle..... ...respectfully, Dell

Study yer I&T FO-4 manual. You'll find that there are "witness marks" on both the camshaft gear and the crankshaft gear that MUST be aligned-up. You can NOT see them until you remove yer engine front timing cover. Its really eazy to miss-mesh the gears. Yer valves will still go uppsie-downsie but not in syncronation with the crankshaft stroke. Thus the "loss of compression".

Engine crankshaft/camshaft miss-timing is NOT a micrometer kinda thing, its a major "tooth" kinda thing and is obvious iff'n yer looking for it. I'm not gonnna repete others instructions for checking valve action versa crankshaft stroke. Nor am I gonnna tell you how to change the gear-mesh relationship. But I will tell you, you'll be ahead of the game iff'n ya takes yer hood/gastank and radiator off FIRST. You've got major accessability problems to solve..... .....respectfully, Dell, the mindless reader