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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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12v.conversion resistor

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oregon

05-27-2006 12:25:46




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Hello,using a TISCO kit on my 9n after installing it did not run.Talking to local tractor guy he told me to not use the original ballest resistor and only use the one in the kit.the diagram shows to use both.well is starts and runs fine with the one resistor...but after it gets warm it starts to miss and dies.after cooling it starts fine and then does the same thing.so it must be getting to much juice to the coil?so any ideas on what resistor to use.thank you for any help.

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Jack-Illinois

05-27-2006 13:42:03




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 Re: 12v.conversion resistor in reply to oregon, 05-27-2006 12:25:46  
I put the Tisco on my 8N front mount about 2 years ago and followed their instuctions of adding their furnished resistor in series with the original. The coil that came with it had a sticker on it as 12 volts too. Has worked just fine the way they instructed. I suggest you put it back with the 2 resistors and check your voltage to the top of the coil with the points closed. Maybe you had a bad connection the first time around.

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Bob

05-27-2006 13:36:58




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 Re: 12v.conversion resistor in reply to oregon, 05-27-2006 12:25:46  
Oregon,

If using the original 6-Volt coil, you need to use the OEM ballast resistor PLUS a "converting resistor" of about 1.6 to 1.8 Ohms.

If using an aftermarket replacement "12-Volt" coil, typically they last longer, and point life is increased if "Dell's Trick Current Limiting Resistor" is used. This is two 1-Ohm 10 Watt wirewound ceramic resistors connected in parallel to make a 1/2 Ohm, 20 Watt resistor.

With the aftermarket "12-Volt" coil, use the 1/2 Ohm 20 Watt resistor ONLY. Bypass the OEM ballast resistor.

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oregon

05-27-2006 21:30:59




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 Re: 12v.conversion resistor in reply to Bob, 05-27-2006 13:36:58  
Bob,you said use two 1-ohm resistor to make a 1/2 ohm resistor?i called an auto parts store and the auto resistors do not state the watts only the amount of resistance.will a .50 resistor work?the coil is a 12v that came in the kit.not sure of the ohm value in the kit resistor.thanks



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Bob

05-27-2006 21:41:18




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 Re: 12v.conversion resistor in reply to oregon, 05-27-2006 21:30:59  
Dell suggests, and lots of folks have had good luck with the resistors I mentioned, which you can get from Radio Shack, or an industrial electronics supply house. They are NOT standard automotive parts, and the "N" Ford front-mount ignition system is NOT a standard application! Here's a photo of the resistors, from "Parts and Pieces", courtesy of Timw(Pa) from PA:

Third Party Image

(Two 1 Ohm, 10 Watt ceramic power reistors, connected in parallel... the Radio Shack part # is # 271-131.)

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do drop in

05-27-2006 12:30:49




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 Re: 12v.conversion resistor in reply to oregon, 05-27-2006 12:25:46  
get a coil that needs no resitor



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do drop in

05-27-2006 14:32:19




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 Re: 12v.conversion resistor in reply to do drop in, 05-27-2006 12:30:49  
excuse..... . thinking of 12v 8n round coil



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Bob

05-27-2006 13:10:18




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 Re: 12v.conversion resistor in reply to do drop in, 05-27-2006 12:30:49  
do,

Most ALL 9N front-mount square-can coils need a resistor or one type or another, even the ones labelled "12-Volts".



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ron francis troncatty

05-28-2006 07:11:05




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 Re: 12v.conversion resistor in reply to Bob, 05-27-2006 13:10:18  
Bob, this is me..... .the guy who didn"t put in the resistor that came with the conversion kit..... ...Pertronix said it wasn"t necessary with a 2.5 ohm coil.....just run through the original resistor on the tractor..... ..not both
could stalling and restarting be a coil thing?



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Bob

05-28-2006 09:11:55




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 Re: 12v.conversion resistor in reply to ron francis troncatty, 05-28-2006 07:11:05  
You are certainly having the symptoms of a overheated coil.

You can verify if it is ignition or "vapor lock" by checking for spark immediately after it has heated up, stopped running, and won't start.

I would have used "Dell's Trick Resistor ahead of the coil. The Pertronix folks are giving the OK to run without a resistor, based on what their MODULE will tolerate, and they must not have figured out what a delicate piece of @*$^ most of the generic "12-Volt square-can coils" are.

At this point, you can try adding the resistor, but the coil may have been overheated to the point where it is permanently damaged.

Then, you'll have to start over with a new coil AND a resistor.

I see no reason NOT to try "Dell's Resistor". The added resistance certainly will not cause any damage, the worst result with too much resistance will be weak spark, but the worst result of NOT enough resistance in the circuit will be a failed coil, and then, possibly a failed module.

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K.LaRue-VA

05-27-2006 20:58:16




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 Re: 12v.conversion resistor in reply to Bob, 05-27-2006 13:10:18  
RIGHT, I found out the hard way that many of the front mount coils being sold as 12-volt coils still need the resistor. My original wiring and resistor assembly was junk, so when I rewired as a 12-volt system, I bought a new 12-volt square can coil. it only lasted about 30-minutes. My original 6-volt coil has been working fine for the last 6-months with a single automotive-type ignition ballast resistor in the ingition circuit.

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ron francis troncatty

05-28-2006 07:05:40




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 Re: 12v.conversion resistor in reply to K.LaRue-VA, 05-27-2006 20:58:16  
well everything has been going fine now with my conversion since this little discussion we had but now my tractor is stalling after a while of running..... ..it starts back up after a few minutes but only runs for a few more minutes and stalls again..... ....if I leave it overnight it runs longer before stalling..... ..could this be vapor lock..... ...it couldn't be the coil could it. If it were the coil it would just go out and not start again right?

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Dell (WA)

05-28-2006 09:08:02




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 Re: 12v.conversion resistor in reply to ron francis troncatty, 05-28-2006 07:05:40  
Ron..... .you write..... .."well everything has been going fine now with my (Pertronix) conversion since this little discussion we had but now my tractor is stalling after a while of running..... ..(eh? re-define "running fine" please)

it starts back up after a few minutes but only runs for a few more minutes and stalls again..... ....(melted insulative tar shorts out the coil windings)

if I leave it overnight it runs longer before stalling..... ..(wannna what overnite cooldown does to melted insulative tar?)

could this be vapor lock..... ...(you think its vapor lock? crack open yer tankcap but remember its very hard to vapor-lock a gravity fed fuel system)

it couldn't be the coil could it. (YES!!!)

If it were the coil it would just go out and not start again right?"..... ....(ignition coils are NOT like lightbulbs or fuses. They have eazy to overheat and melt insulative tars and shorts out the coil windings and cause weak sparkies and ultimately engine stops running until the tar hardens again)..... .....respectfully, Dell yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

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