Igniition less than perfect...

I have been working through different problems with this site and things keep getting better with my tractor.

Finally figured out carb adjsutments this past weekend.

Let me tell you the current mystery (although I think I know the answer)...
New 12v battery, new 437 spark plugs, new resistor, new three position key switch, new 12 volt coil, new wiring harness and new one wire alternator. (The only things which arent new are the plug wires and the distributor)

Checked plug wires with volt meter. Position one and three have high resistance. They checked out at like 5 and 9 while two and four were 22 and 30. Also the spark plug covers are split and the distributor caps are also worn and have big cracks.(Hence, I think new plug wires will go along way with the tractor starting and running better)

The tractor runs good. The starting can be tricky sometimes. The coil is getting good voltage, it is between the coil and the spark plugs where the voltage is lost. Several attempts need to be made with choking before it will fire off and even then it is real unsure of itself. Also noticed that after running for a little while that the engine might start missing but then it goes away.

Now I am familiar with Dell's 4 most common ignition problems trouble shooting. However, I dont think my key switch or coil is bad. Like I said they are new but I know not all these parts when new are right. I just dont have a big enough problem with starting the tractor or running it for that matter to believe one of those components are bad. It just seems to me that those plug wires are in need of replacment very badly.

What does anyone think? Most gain to be made from new plug wires or should I focus on the distibutor (points etc?)

Although, the carb rebuil dand adjustments seem to be right.

It is the intenisty of the spark at the spark plug that makes me think it is the at the wires.

Hold medium wrench in one hand, Sears wrench preferred for accuracy
of test 'cause other smooth wrenches are too slick for throwin'!

With engine runnin', grab hold of the plug end of an ignition cable with the other hand
and hold on tight!

This will more than likely cause you to throw wrench! KV output is based on how far
the wrench wuz thrown!

10 feet = approx. 10,000 volts 20 feet = approx. 15,000 volts 30 feet = approx. 25,000 volts Over 30 feet = Caution! Must be one of them new
dis-is-it ignition systems, use bigger
wrench and retest.

WARNING! No side effects have been reported due to testing at this time
(although it has been known to kill chiggers after berry pickin')

Bubba Sez: Electricity will not usually hurt you, instead it is the back of
your neck going through the hood latch that really ruins your day!!

New copper-core sparkie wire insulation is so much better than old dried out sparkie wire insultion. DO NOT GET modern anti-radiostatic automobile sparkie wire 'cuz they have built-in resistance to electrons and your barely addequate OEM squarecan ignition coil don't have hot-enuff sparkies to overcome the resistance.

When replacing yer new COPPER-CORE sparkie wires start with the LONGEST first. Just push and install the rubber nipples AFTER you cut-to-fit.

Remember yer firing order is 1,2,4,3 CCW..... ...Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

It is that orange spark when I check those wires that makes me think that is where I am loosing it too.

Eveything else is new and or has checked out okay.

I am a little heisitant to pull that distributor or purchase a new one yet.

Thanks for the help.

• Hobby farm

As Soundguy said, without knowing what scale you are using, it's impossible to interpret the readings you gave.

However, since the wires and cap are a bit tattered, it certainly is a good idea to replace them, PROVIDING you get good quality replacements.

Suppression core wires COULD give readings like that on the "K" Ohms scale, OR solid-core wires could give readings like that on the "Ohms X1" scale, and on that scale, the variations you list could simply be due to a poor connection with the meter lead due to a bit of corrosion on the high tension terminal ends, combined with the low resistance being measured.

Next with respect to your coils and voltages.. if you have a tisco style 12v square coil, what resistor are you using in line... it should be a 1/2 ohm resistor.. not the oem ballast resistor, and not a 8ne10306 dropping resistor..

Soundguy

The plugs and wires thamselves do seem to be in bad shape.

I juts didnt want to have to replace the distributor (yet anyway).

I will replace the plug wires.

Thanks

This stemms from 'kit' manufacturers not having a hand 'off-the-shelf- supply of the correct value resistor to throw in the kit with the square 12v coil..

Soundguy