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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Coil Problem

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badcam

06-05-2006 15:37:33




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my 8n keeps burning up coils "any Ideas"




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Zapata

06-06-2006 07:38:51




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 Re: Coil Problem in reply to badcam, 06-05-2006 15:37:33  
Along the same lines, I just got dad's old 8N, a 1950 model w/ the front mount distributer. This tractor started every time for him for the last 25 years, I hauled it 1500 miles, started it up and drove it off the trailer and parked it. But when I went to move it, it would not start. Cranks, is getting fuel, but no spark at the plug. Power is at the coil wire. When I removed the coil and distributer cover to look at the points, I wondered why they were in the front where you can not see them, much less adjust them.. Am I correct in assuming that to replace points the hood and radiator need to be removed?? Thanks

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roger m'40 9n

06-06-2006 08:08:20




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 Re: Coil Problem in reply to Zapata, 06-06-2006 07:38:51  
Nope. Just remove the distributor and work on it on the work bench. Easy to pull off -- two bolts. It is driven by an offset tang. Will not go back on wrong unless you use a really big hammer.

Roger in Michigan



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Dell (WA)

06-06-2006 08:05:38




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 Re: Coil Problem in reply to Zapata, 06-06-2006 07:38:51  
Zapata..... ...no, no, no!!! NO HOOD removal, no standing on yer head, no dental mirrors. I know it is hard to believe, but to replace the points on the 4-nipple squarecan frontmount distributor, you remove it and do it on the kitchen table. Ittza 2-bolt, 15-minute job. Just un-snap the 4-nipple cap and letter dangle. Remove the 2-bolts, topwire and walk away. Simple, eh?

Heres the deal, the frontmount distributor is driven by an "OFF-SET" cam tang drive scheme and will always be "in-time". For re-installation, just gently finger insert the 2-bolts and then turn yer ROTOR until it drops into the camshaft drive slott. Now, tighten yer 2-bolts, and re-snapp yer 4-nipple cap. Simple, eh?..... ..Dell

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roger '40 9n

06-05-2006 15:50:31




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 Re: Coil Problem in reply to badcam, 06-05-2006 15:37:33  
lotsa reasons for coil burn up.
We need more information.

Front mount or side mount distributor?
6 or 12 volt system?
6 volt coil or 12 volt coil?
square can coil or round can coil?

Any modifications from stock ignition system?


Roger in Michigan.



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badcam

06-05-2006 17:53:19




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 Re: Coil Problem in reply to roger '40 9n, 06-05-2006 15:50:31  
Its a front Dist, 12volt conversion, and the parts guy said it was a 12volt coil because i told him it was convrted to 12volt.
the coil is square this is the 3rd coil it runs great for awhile then it shuts down like its running out of gas and the coil in shot.
dont know about ign switch



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Dell (WA)

06-05-2006 20:00:08




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 Re: Coil Problem in reply to badcam, 06-05-2006 17:53:19  
badcam..... ...there are 4-common runtime issues for the squarecan frontmount N-Engine.

1) runs for about 1-min and quits; bad condenser
NOT yer stated problem
2) runs for about 5-mins and quits; clogged fuel filters (3 ea) NOT yer stated problem
3) runs for about 15-mins and quits, restarts in about 30 mins; gunked up ignition switch guttz
NOT yer stated problem but could be
4) runs for about 1-hr and quits; restarts after overnite cooldown;
sound like yer problem? BAD IGNITION COIL

Yer OVERHEATING yer squarecan ignition coil and melting its insulative tars from too many amps caused by yer 1-wire alternator conversion. Yeah, I know yer partman said use a 12-volt coil; he is semi-right. Problem is the 12-volt coil was designed for 12.6 volts but yer 12-volt battery needs about 14.4 volts to charge the battery but the 1-wire alternator putts out 14.7-volts and that causes too much amps to flow and OVERHEATS the internal guttz and melts the insulative tars and shorts out some windings and whoops weak sparkies and quits running. But amazingly enuff, overnite cooldown solidifys the melted insulative tars and the coil will work just fine until it overheats again. (think candlewax)

10 years ago, the makers of the new squarecan 12-volt ignition coil used to include a little sheet of toiletpaper with instructions (but who reads instructions) in 6-different languages ('xcept 'muricum) to add an external additional current control resistor of about 0.047-ohms 20-watts (standard electronic value but NOT AUTOMOTIVE/TRACTOR part)

RadioShack sells a 2-pack of 1-ohm 10-watt square ceramic resistors p/n: 271-130 that you can convert into a special "trick" 1/2-ohm resistor by twisting the wire pigtails together and use it inplace of the "infamous ballast resistor" to limit your 12-volt coil current and overheating. Understand?..... ...respectfully, Dell

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