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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Points, condensor, and plug wires...

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SCgoatfarmer

06-07-2006 10:47:16




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1949 8n front mount distributor

Threaded new plug wires to tractor. Pulled distributor out.

If you are at the front of the tractor looking at the distibutor, they are numbered 1,2, 4, and 3 in a counter clock wise motion starting at the top left.

Each of these numbered positions correspond with the cylinder head it needs to go to starting at the front and going back numbered 1, 2, 3, and 4.

Correct?... I thought that is the way it goes but as I was replacing them, I could have swore that 4 and 3 were mixed on the distributor. Howevevr, when my tarctor ran it wasnt missing any. I must have just been confused but wanted to hear it from you guys (and girls).

Now on the distributor, I kept trying to turn what looked like a Phillips head screw but this is actually the lobe nut(?). Have I screwed anything up by turning this? How do I get the new points to seat through this lobe nut? It just doesnt want to go over it. How do I gap .015 for the new points? Does the copper strip from the coil contact to the point suppose to look that frail? I dont think it can be replaced can it?

Alosn off the wall question, when using my pulverizer I have the posiiton control lever down (horizontal). Do I need the PTO engaged for the hydraulics to puch it down or does it automatically push down while the control lever is horizontal?

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LeeMo

06-07-2006 11:12:10




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 Re: Points, condensor, and plug wires... in reply to SCgoatfarmer, 06-07-2006 10:47:16  
1,2,4,3 and 1-front,2,3,4 correct. If you've turned the lobe that adjusts the point gap it may be moved so the points won't go in. Turn it a bit and they'll drop down over it. That's what you'll use to adjust your point gap to .015. You will either need a gap guage, available at any auto parts store, wal-mart, etc. or a little metal gap guage that came with your points and condenser. It'll usually be marked .015 on one side or the other. Turn the distributor shaft so that the rubbing block on the point set is on one of the four high lobes of the dist. cam then adjust the lobe that fits inside the point set until the gap between the contacts of the points is exactly touching each side of the gap guage without being real tight or sloppy loose. Yes, the copper strip looks frail. The hydraulics on your N will not push down regardless of where the position control lever is. They're not designed to have down pressure other than gravity. The horizontal position is for draft control to be used for plowing depth. To control the position of the hydraulic lift so it dosn't move up and down on its own you'll want the lever under the seat pointing up. Good Luck, Lee

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SCgoatfarmer

06-07-2006 11:36:01




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 Re: Points, condensor, and plug wires... in reply to LeeMo, 06-07-2006 11:12:10  
"Draft control for plowing"... doe sthis mean it is essenaitlly "locked" in a down posiitn so it will not ride on top of the soil?

Or does this mean soemthing else?

Also, the frail brass strip from the primary coil contact to the point should be on the bottom of the screw? I dont see how this brass strip should be in relaiton to the brass strip of the point.

One on top and one on bottom?

The scre holding these two together cna not be too tight can it?

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LeeMo

06-07-2006 11:48:56




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 Re: Points, condensor, and plug wires... in reply to SCgoatfarmer, 06-07-2006 11:36:01  
"Draft control for plowing"... doe sthis mean it is essenaitlly "locked" in a down posiitn so it will not ride on top of the soil?
Or does this mean soemthing else?

*It means that the plow will raise if it gets to digging too deep. pressure on the plow adjusts the hydraulics*

Also, the frail brass strip from the primary coil contact to the point should be on the bottom of the screw? I dont see how this brass strip should be in relaiton to the brass strip of the point.

*They go together and the order isn't important. An electrical connection is the object*

One on top and one on bottom?

The scre holding these two together cna not be too tight can it?

*It needs to be fairly tight to keep it from backing out and losing the electrical connection*

*I'd like to suggest that when you disassemble something you pay close attention to how it was together before you take it apart. I don't always remember either but it helps if you try. Also a manual will help you see how things go together sometimes.*
Good Luck, Lee

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Scgoatfarmer

06-07-2006 11:27:21




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 Re: Points, condensor, and plug wires... in reply to LeeMo, 06-07-2006 11:12:10  
I think I have got it now.

Thanks a lot.



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souNdguy

06-07-2006 10:59:44




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 Re: Points, condensor, and plug wires... in reply to SCgoatfarmer, 06-07-2006 10:47:16  
Your cap should be numbered as to what spark plug each nipple goes to.

As it is.. N fire order 1-2-4-3

On the 3pt hitch, the pto has to be engaged for the hyds to work ( clutch not pushed ). For position control, the little draft handle is straight up.

There is no 3pt down pressure.

Soundguy



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SCgoatfarmer

06-07-2006 11:32:48




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 Re: Points, condensor, and plug wires... in reply to souNdguy, 06-07-2006 10:59:44  
Thanks.

One last question, when the lever is horizontal, the implemtn does not have position control and can not be raisde... I understand.

So when the lever is horizontal, there is no down pressure but the lift is locked(?) as low as it will go?



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souNdguy

06-07-2006 11:49:17




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 Re: Points, condensor, and plug wires... in reply to SCgoatfarmer, 06-07-2006 11:32:48  
When the small 3" lever is horizontal, the lift is in draft control.. and it -CAN- be raised, if you raise the hytrol handle ALL the way up.

Neither position on either lever 'locks' the 3pt down.

With the hytrol lever down all the way.. the lift is at it's lowest point.

And there is no provision for down pressure on -MOST- tractor lift systems.

Soundguy



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