Distiibutor problem?....

New 12 volt electrical system, just replaced plug wires, new coil and just replaced points and condensor. Started her up and she ran great. Parked her, took off the hood and gas tank and then replaced radiator and installed thermosatt which it was missing. While the radiator was out, I checked and readjusted my gap for the points and changed the condensor from attching to the points brass strip screw to the primary coil contact screw as it is pictured in the FO-4 manual.

Now she wont fire off.

Questions I have...
1. If the distributor was pulled out and then put back in but the tangs on the back were put back in 180 degrees different when they were pulled out, could this have the timing off? I know the tangs on the back fit into the block to prevent from mis-timing. But can you have those tangs 180 degrees different than when you took them out when you put it back in and cause the tractor not to start?
2. I did not time the distibutor itself (FO-4 procedure describes a straight edge against the tangs in relation to one of the mounting screw holes). Could this need to be done with all the adjsutment and changes I have made? I doubted this one since when I replaced the points and condesnor, re-gapped and replaced the first time, she ran beautifully. Also, I do not have the FO-4 manual just borroweed soemone else but no longer have it. Can any one describe this enough for me to go home and do it or is it soemthing I will need to read and do?
3. I have got 12 votls from the battrery to the coil but havent checked the plugs for fire. I know the wiring is good. Everythign is new. Where else or what else do I need to look at?
4. I rebuilt the carb during my clutch replacment two months ago. I had adjusted that thing multiple times but had vowed not to touch it after the last time she was running good. That is the only other area I could think I might have a problem but even if that thing was really out of adjustment, I should at least get soemthing when I try to turn her over... shouldnt I?

Any thoughts or suggestion?

I know I am this close to getting that tractor dialed in and finally running dependable if I could just get past this.

You are not to clear in this... It WAS running, then you changed the condensor lead location... you had the radiator "off" while doing this, so did you remove the distributor to work with the condensor lead?

Why did you move the condensor lead as you say it WAS running before that? The condensor will function the same connected to either place. You may have the lead's terminal, or something else touching the metal distributor housing, or one of the insulators in that area may have broken and be causing a short, or the snap ring that holds the breaker plate in place may be touching insulated parts.

I didnt force the distibutor on. The tangs fit into place. I wasnt sure I didnt turn the tangs 180 degrees howevevr and get it in back wards but it has been said several times that that is not psosible.

I looked over the distibuotr, points, gap, rotor, condensor and connections pretty thoroughly before I put the radiator back on. You get a pretty good look from the front. I double and triple examined it probably more. From everything I know and am learning (albneit little) I was sure I had eveything right.

That is why I am so confuced now. The first time I opened up the distibutor and changed points and condensor and put back together, she ran like a champ. Then I shut it down and didnt get to run it for a week. When I tried to start her again, she wouldnt fire off. I needed to replace the radiator so I went ahead and broke it down to get another look at my points. When I checked them out the second time, I saw that the points bracket must have moved because when you spun the rotor (unbolted the distibutor to do this) the contacts always touched even on the lobe of the cam. So then I readjusted the gap, locked the points bracket down good, and then changed connection of the condensor for consistancy sake (rediculous I know)

Anyway, that is where I am at.

Close but no cookie... it has to be something really small like you have suggested that I am overlooking.

If it ran before you changed the points.. then timing was close enough.

I'd check to make sure you have no grounded the points.. or that they did not slip closed.

Don't guess at spark.. check it... pull a plug or just the wire and roll her over.. etc.

Soundguy

I had aksed the question before about moving the condensor attachment from the points brass strip screw down to the primary coil screw down. The concensus was that this didnt matter... still doesnt matter I assume?

Any other ideas based off this information?

I appreciate the help.

I believe you are right in that I first need to check the spark. If I dont have one, I guess my next stepo is to pull the distributor ... AGAIN!

If your points slipped once.. my bet is they slipped again..That screw strips out pretty easilly.

Check your spark and then you will know..

Soundguy