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If it is running and starting well with the old ballast resistor, leave well enough alone. You are getting enough ignition voltage, so long as it starts and runs well. The ceramic resistors (Dell's trick resistors) have LESS resistance than the OEM ballast resistor, and will heat the coil MORE, and wear the breaker points QUICKER than what you are using. There seems to be 12-Volt coils out there with several winding resistance values, and, realistically, with these wimpy coils, the less primary current they have to carry, the better, as long as there is enough spark form the coil's secondary to make the engine start and run well. Some seem to need the relatively low resistance of "Dell's trick resistor to make enough spark for the engine to start and run properly, others do just fine with the OEM ballast resistor. One thing IS sure, though. Most, if not ALL the aftermarket so-called "12-Volt" coils need at least SOME resistance in the primary circuit to prevent coil failure from overheating, and short breaker point life. I still can't figure out how enough current is getting through a #194 bulb, much less 2 in series, to keep the engine running when the key is shut off! On many of my 12-Volt conversions, I use a diode in place of the lamp, eliminating ANY possibility of that happening.  Link loading="auto" style="width:auto;height:auto" alt="Third Party Image">">Link
The Ford resistance wire lead would be closer in resistance to the OEM ballast resistor, than to "Dell's Trick Resistor".
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