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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Clutch Problem

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RustyAL

07-28-2006 09:30:31




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I am just about to finish a long time 8N project. The tractor clutch was not working when I bought the tractor. So the clutch was replaced. So clutch problem solved. Wrong! So now the tractor has to be split. Fresh paint and all. The pedal has several inches of free play. Do you think that maybe someone had the flywheel refaced? The funny thing is that a kind fellow had just stopped by asking about the exact same sitiuation on an 8N he is working on. He was thinking about putting a shim behind the throw out bearing. I told the fellow I would not be much help since I had not run into the problem yet. He left and in an hours time my project tractor was running and ready to go untill I stepped on the clutch.

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Hobo,NC

07-28-2006 15:22:14




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 Re: Clutch Problem in reply to RustyAL, 07-28-2006 09:30:31  
Don’t take this wrong just sum food for thought maybe you kin pass this on to the next fellow. A experienced mechanic would have installed a few bolts in the bell housing and then checked to make sure the clutch werked and adjustments were in order if not then it would have been easy to remove the clutch. This izz sumin that I would not expect a DIY to know but would learn quickly if he had to redo the job, least that’s the way I had to learn how to check my werk and catch a problem before I lost my A$$ and paycheck for that day. Glad it all werked out for ya cuzz I hate to have to redo a clutch job not knowing what the problem izz.

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RustyAL

07-28-2006 19:58:53




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 Re: Clutch Problem in reply to Hobo,NC, 07-28-2006 15:22:14  
Your right. The thing is. I rebuilt several tractors and never ran into a problem. I will check it out next time. Next project is an Oliver 77 Row Crop. No worries about having to split the tractor there. Thanks



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RustyAL

07-28-2006 14:22:09




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 Re: Clutch Problem in reply to RustyAL, 07-28-2006 09:30:31  
Thanks for your help. It turns out there was a number of problems. Several worn parts in the linkage and linkage adjustment. And I am not sure that the pressure plate fingers are right since I did not check it before putting the tractor together. (oops) Anyway the linkage had wear in each of the parts. Just the wear in the clevis pin made about an inch of free play. Then adjusting the linkage all the way in helped. I think replacing the bushings in the housing and pedal would help. And welding and redrilling the clevis pin hole in the pedal would make a big difference.

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Bob

07-28-2006 14:26:05




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 Re: Clutch Problem in reply to RustyAL, 07-28-2006 14:22:09  
I hope your problem is just play in the linkage.

Too bad a guy can't verify the finger height without pulling it apart again!



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SCgoatfarmer

07-28-2006 11:30:10




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 Re: Clutch Problem in reply to RustyAL, 07-28-2006 09:30:31  
First time offering any advice so it might not be any good.

I replaced the clutch on my 8n about three months ago.

I had the same problem... too much free play with the clutch. Therefore the clutch wouldnt engage the pressure plate. I thougth the samne thing that I needed to split it but actually what needed to be doen was adjust the pedal itself.

I assuem that as the clucth disc had wonr down for the previous owner, he loosened it up.

I had to pull the pin on the clutch pedal, screw the clevis( I think that it is what it is called) tighter and then repin the pedal.

That did away with all the free play and then would engage the pressure plate when pressed all the way down.

Not sure if you have the same proeblem but the FO-4 manual; shows this adjustment and that there should only be 3/16th of an inch freeplay.

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Bob

07-28-2006 10:46:37




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 Re: Clutch Problem in reply to RustyAL, 07-28-2006 09:30:31  
Apparently, some aftermarket replacement lined clutch plates are thicker, which greatly affects the position of the clutch release fingers (moves them forward, away from the TO bearing). This sounds like your problem, as it moves the release finger location FAR more than shaving a few thousandths off of the flywheel.

For the clutch to work properly, the geometry of the finger location has to be correct, or the clutch will not engage smoothly, and shimming the TO bearing forward is NOT the correct way to achieve that.

It is possible you can adjust the fingers enough, or otherwise you may be better off to find a thinner lined plate.

Here's a diagram of a tool to set the finger height to the required 2" rearward of the flywheel face:

Third Party Image

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