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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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bad compression

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8njohn

08-08-2006 17:22:11




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surely everyone is tired of my issues by now, however need some more opinions.

A friend who is an antique engine guru, when hearing about my issues is thinking that while i was trying to start my tractor, i "wiped" my rings with gasoline, since i un-doubtedly flooded it. However, i have a couple issues with this, 1) my plugs were never wet with gas, or at least that i saw. and 2) I would think that i would have a heavy gas smell in my oil, and 3) if my tractor normally makes decent compression, not too good but it still did run, the oil in the rings was so important that i cannot make any compression without it. That would mean that my rings are really really worn. And i would think that i would burn alot of oil, and would see alot of venting from my crankcase. When she is pulling hard. Does that sound right to anyone?

Obviously i would love what he says to work. He thinks i should soak the pistons with some MMO and let them sit for a half hour or so, and restart, it should work? Which is certaintly better than pulling valve covers and trying to free everything up.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

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8njohn

08-09-2006 05:14:38




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 Re: bad compression in reply to 8njohn, 08-08-2006 17:22:11  
Thank you all so much for you input. I really had my doubts about the gasoline thing washing the rings, seemed interesting.

At anyrate, got an order in for new intake/exhaust manifold gaskets, so i guess i will be taking it off, of course i will try not taking it off, but i will be prepared in case.

Unfortunately i am a long way from my tractor so i will not be able to work on it for a week or so. But thank you all for the info and i will keep you posted when i get her running.

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Jerry/MT

08-08-2006 19:31:48




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 Re: bad compression in reply to 8njohn, 08-08-2006 17:22:11  
Respectfully, I think your friend doesn't know what he's talking about. I read your previous post and based on the results of the test that your father ran, my guess is that you have some stuck valves, very common on these flatheads especially those used infrequently. I would recommend that you do a real compression test, but since you can't start the tractor, you won't be able to do that.(Need the engine to be at operating temperature to do a proper compression test.) So pull the side panels off and crank it over watching the valves. You can probably see them stick. If not, spray 'em all with brake cleaner. Once you get them unstuck, your engine should start. Then use a little MMO in the gas per the instructions on the can. (I had friend who swore by 1 pt of automatic transmission fluid in a full tank of gas to prevent this problem. Don't know if it's true or not but he swore by it.)Hope this helps you.

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old

08-08-2006 19:29:20




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 Re: bad compression in reply to 8njohn, 08-08-2006 17:22:11  
If your going to put any thing in the cylinder use tranny fluid cost less the half the $$ and works just as good. BTDT and do so all the time. If the valves are stuck you will almost have to pull the cover off and free them up by hand. The cover can be pulled with out pulling the manifold but its not as easy to do the work that way

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JimNC

08-08-2006 18:34:51




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 Re: bad compression in reply to 8njohn, 08-08-2006 17:22:11  
John,
I just read your post from a few days ago. You got some really good advice on what to do. Your friend however is full-o-crap. Sorry. The easiest thing and probably the first thing I would do is take the 2 rocker covers off and varify that the valves are stuck. You can work them loose, keep spraying them and pry up and down spray some more. I doubt that the rings are stuck, possible yes, but doubtful. Go with the easy stuff first, well, the trouble shooting that cost the least anyhow.

Jim

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gahorN

08-08-2006 23:50:49




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 Re: bad compression in reply to JimNC, 08-08-2006 18:34:51  
A good way to diagnose bad compression on an engine which will not start is to place each cylinder (in turn) at top dead center, and with the tractor in high gear and the spark plug removed, introduce about 89 psi of compressed air into that cylinder. (You can use a common blow gun, but NAPA and CARQUEST both sell a fitting to replace the spark plug for the purpose. Any aircraft mechanic will know this technique and likely have the tool as well.) In any case, if the leaking air is heard at the exhaust pipe...the exhaust valve is leaking. Air escaping and hissing at the carb is the intake valve leaking. Air hissing/escaping at the oil filler cap...rings are leaking. Don't be surprised at a little leaking on a cold engine past the rings... but a BIG leak is reason to pursue it and repair it.

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