BOB or DELL

I"m confused though if bottoming out the idle screw won"t kill the engine then how does it even effect adjustment? Your supposed to start with it one full turn out right? Well I turned it all the way in to seat and all the way out ..... .completely out ..... had it in my hand and the engine was still running the same.

So now what do I do..... ..Think it still is the sparkies?

Like I said before. I didn"t change any of the parts in the kit except for the gaskets because they all looked fine under close inspection.

Added on Date: 07:32:54 09/18/06

It is an "air-bleed" adjustment. IN for less air, therefore richer idle-mix. Simple, eh?

You should always adjust you idle-mix for MAXIMUM idle rpms, NOT SMOOTHEST idle, maximum idle. Understand?

Then re-adjust yer behind the carb idle speed throttle screw for a SLOOOooow 400rpms. (ennythang under 500rpms is probably close'nuff) I do the idle-mix adjust at least 3-times. My idle-mix usually ends up about 3/8-turn. Yours will be different. Understand?

Howsomevers; since you claim yer ruff-runnin' is at all speeds, this is usually a SPARKIE issue. Check yer firing order, 1,2,4,3, CCW. By-pass yer weaksister ignition switch with a jumper clippie. Theses are 2-quick sparkie checks..... ...Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

Screwing it in all the way cuts off added air from the idle mixture, and fully RICHENS the idle mixture.

Removing it COMPLETELY simply allows external air (rather air that has been filtered) to enter the idle circuit. The total amount of air that enters is still limited by the oriface the idle needle seats down into, and there is little difference between a screw that is out, say 4 turns, and removing the screw completely.

In other words, the idle mixture screw only can affect the idle mixture over a certain range, and if the carb is overfull of fuel, or a jet or passage is plugged, something is miss-assembled, or there is an air leak in the intake system, the amount of change in the overall mixture that the idle screw can effect is NOT enough to affect the idle quality.

Or, if the engine is missing due to a fouled plug, or worse, tinkering with the carb settings isn't going to clear it up.

In your initial post, you said the engine was running rough BEFORE and AFTER your carb rebuild, so it seems LIKELY it could be missing for reasons other than the carb.

Did you ever get around to pulling the sparkplugs, and comparing them, looking for an obvious difference in tip color or fouling that would point out a misfiring cylinder?

Also, do a compression check.

You didn't mention it, but is the exhaust smokey, or does the carb "drip", indicating a rich mixture, and "running over"?