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BOB / DELL et al/huge brain fluff

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Ron Tron

09-29-2006 07:51:16




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OK here goes..... ...I have changed the igniton to electronic (pertronix ignitor)new 12 volt coil,new cap,rewired with resistor etc..... ..rebuilt carb three times..... ...redirected fuel line so it can"t get hot anymore..... ...new key switch..... .new spark plugs..... ....AND STILL THE THING PUTTERS AFTER ABOUT 45 MINUTES OF USE AND THEN DIES..... IF I START IT UP RIGHT AWAY IT WILL PUTTER AGAIN TILL IT DIES..... ..IF I GO AWAY AND LEAVE IT FOR 20 OR THIRTY MINUTES IT WILL RUN FOR A WHILE AGAIN..... ...HELLLLL LLLLL LLLLL PPPPP P!
BLOWN HEAD GASKET? couldn"t be spark plug wires could it.....thats the only thing I didn"t change and they are in pretty poor shape..... .but that doesn"t make sense..... ...helllll lllll lP?

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Fuel Vent..John,PA

09-29-2006 14:38:41




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 Re: BOB / DELL et al/huge brain fluff in reply to Ron Tron, 09-29-2006 07:51:16  
There is a fuel vent on the top of the fuel tank. From everything you report, I would make sure that the vent hole isn't plugged with crud.
Sometimes a mud dobber will close the small hole which is the tank vent. After running for awhile, the fuel will be starved. About right time 30 to 45 min.

HTH John,PA



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Phil (NJ.AZ,Sask)

09-29-2006 11:19:56




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 Re: BOB / DELL et al/huge brain fluff in reply to Ron Tron, 09-29-2006 07:51:16  
RON, I would drain the GAS and remove Sediment Bowl
& clean both Ports (Reg & EMG). I always shot-gun
fuel problems, thats clean everything. I have found that opening my shut-off valve all the way ccw will buy some time between problems.

IF you really need or want to know the fuel level in the carb bowl you can rig some clear plastic tubing to the drain plug hole. The level of the fuel in clear plastic tubing will be equal to the level in the bowl when tubing is upright along side the carb bowl (plug upper end of tube & tape tube to the side of carb)

Hope this Helps,

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dwol

09-29-2006 10:26:11




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 Re: BOB / DELL et al/huge brain fluff in reply to Ron Tron, 09-29-2006 07:51:16  
My 2cents. I bet you have a bad feul tank. In Alot of old tractors, and cars the tanks start to deteriorate (spelled that the best I could). I would look in the ole tank and see if there is any crud. Its probably supplying a small flow of fuel but after running for a while the engine needs more than the tank is giving. The way to check this is to rig up some kind of auxililary tank, but be carful and do it right or you could have a disaster. I used a tank off of a trolling motor which gave me about a gallon and when the engin start dying, switch it over and see if runs again.
good luck and hope this helps.

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Bruce (VA)

09-29-2006 10:12:13




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 Re: BOB / DELL et al/huge brain fluff in reply to Ron Tron, 09-29-2006 07:51:16  
Was the tractor doing this before you converted it to 12v & E.I.?



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Southpaw

09-29-2006 09:18:14




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 Re: BOB / DELL et al/huge brain fluff in reply to Ron Tron, 09-29-2006 07:51:16  
I had a similar situation after rebuilding my old carb. Twas a combination of a slightly sticky float and some crud on the screen.
Tractor would run for a bit til all the gas was done in the carburetor. Let it sit and it slowly filled back up - I'm guessing since I couldn't see inside.
When mine went into sputter mode I pulled the air intake off the carb and spritzed some gas in... vroom. No sputter.
If I would have had a can of starting fluid I would have used that for safety reasons.

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LeeMo

09-29-2006 08:25:20




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 Re: BOB / DELL et al/huge brain fluff in reply to Ron Tron, 09-29-2006 07:51:16  
Sounds an awful lot like a coil heating up and losing spark. Nearly exact symptoms my '49 8N had before I replaced the coil. I think your new coil could be bad. Like the others suggested check the spark while it's doing the sputtering thing and go from there.



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duey

09-29-2006 08:12:25




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 Re: BOB / DELL et al/huge brain fluff in reply to Ron Tron, 09-29-2006 07:51:16  
Have you tried loosening the fuel tank cap as you work the tractor? If not, do that after ten minutes, loosen it for a half second and re-secure. Reason being, if the tank vent is nearly plugged, you'll use the fuel faster than the air can get in to replace the missing fuel... and slowly, it'll stop the flow.

Hate to have you spend all the time, money and effort only to have a bad vent.... but all is not lost.

Let us know what you find.... duey

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Bob

09-29-2006 08:02:20




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 Re: BOB / DELL et al/huge brain fluff in reply to Ron Tron, 09-29-2006 07:51:16  
It's not your headgasket.

It's not your spark plug wires.

You are either losing spark or something is restricting the the flow of gasoline.

When it dies, IMMEDIATELY check for a HOT, blue spark. If it starts up with the test spark plug connected to one of the spark plug wires, so be it. Let it run, and watch the spark, until it "dies" again.

If the spark fails, or appears to get weak, as it dies, you have an IGNITION problem that needs to be tracked down, like a weak ignition switch, or coil.

If the spark remains good, as the engine slows and stalls, you know you have a gasoline flow problem.

Do that simple spark test, and post back as to whether it is igntion related, or not, and we'll try to help from there!

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gahorN

09-30-2006 10:19:18




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 Re: BOB / DELL et al/huge brain fluff in reply to Bob, 09-29-2006 08:02:20  
Sure sounds like a bad coil to me. Yep. Test for spark when it acts up. I'll bet it's a cheap fix with a new coil.



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