How do they get that glossy finish?

I've decided to take the block of my 1948 8n and haul it to the machine shop. They have agreed to look at it and tell me exactly what my engine is going to need maybe to include a complete overhaul. They will give me an estimate on the costs and then I'll have to decide whether it will be worth investing in this engine or to order a rebuilt one. My block has several really big cracks in it that were brazed by a previous owner. I found a local dealer who sells rebuilt engines for $1,800. I've already rebuilt my transmission, carburetor, generator and done a whole lot of work to the rear end of the tractor. I don't have the tools to do the work on the engine, so I thought it would be best to have a machine shop do it.

While I'm waiting I'm just starting to think about later down the road when it's time to paint. I've been to several parades and tractor shows over the past couple of weeks. I have a 1952 that my dad and I restored and put it in the shows. It looks really good but it doesn't have that mirror gloss like many of the show tractors. The '52 was my first restoration, and feel like I will continue to get better as I've gained some experience on restoring these tractors.

On my '52 I used PPG Acrylic Enamel automotive paint with hardner, which seems to be good stuff, and has some gloss when I wax it. I did not clear coat it however. So can someone fill me in on the "secret to the gloss?" I want to go for a glossier finish on this tractor.

Thanks,
Scott

Yes all Ford Tractors came out of the factory with high gloss enamel of the day and they did have a high shine but using high gloss catalyst will surpass most any shine.

As for yer "brazed" cracks in yer castiron block. Brazing castiron is a "good fix". Better'n welding. Welding invaribly leads to more cracks because of the long term cool-down requirment and inablility to control it unless you have an OVEN large enuff to hold the N-Block for 12-hrs..... ....Dell, the 20/20 painter (looks good at 20ft or 20mph

A couple of things I still don't understand about clearcoating. You mentioned wet sanding before putting on the clear as final coat. So does this mean after you get your 1-2 coats of paint underneath, you scratch up your nice and shiney fresh paint job so you can put on the clearcoat? How can you sand it by hand evenly enough so that it doesn't show through the clearcoat? It seems like sanding your paint would really mark it up like primer. I don't know if I would have the nerve to sand my paintjob if it really looked good. Can you use a clearcoat with regular alkyd enamel or do you have to go with the automotive quality paint?

Obviously I'm not a professional painter I'm just am amateur. But even though my amateur job may not look as good as a professional, what I like about it is the sence of "I did it" when it's done. And it even looks good!
Thanks,
Scott

I guess you could clear coat it.. however, all I have ever done is use hardner in my alkyd based paints.

The last few i have painted, you can see yourself in the finish.

I'll post a closeup pic of my 5000.. You can see the luster of the paint.

Soundguy

I agree about the hardner. I have a tractor painted without it.. -huge- difference in the finish. even cheaper alkyd paint 26$/gallon and 8$ hardner make a huge difference.

Soundguy