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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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sticky clutch

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5NSlezWI

10-26-2006 09:14:00




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I've recently had a clutch sticking problem. A recurrence of a problem 3 or 4 years ago, in which I had someone split the tractor and determine that the seal that keeps the oil or gear lube out was leaking. He replaced the seal and cleaned the clutch plate because he said it didn't look bad. It worked great until this year, when it started to stick again. Basically, when you push the clutch in, it stays engaged for a few seconds and then lets go. Also is an issue trying to get it in gear after being parked. To combat the problem, I put a block of wood in the clutch pedal to keep it pressed down when parked. It worked well.

This past week, I spent some time repairing some other leaks (lower link pins, steering box, and valve covers). Based on some previous posts, while doing this, I also pulled the starter and sprayed some brake cleaner inside the clutch. I figured this would get me by for a while. I really have no desire to split the tractor this fall. Snow's comin' you know!

Now that everything is back together I started it up and cannot get the clutch to disengage at all. Much worse than previous. The only thing I thought of is that when I pulled the left rear trumpet, there was a period of time when the clutch was engaged. I put a quick grip clam on the lever to pull it to a disengaged position, but I don't think I had enough tension...or as much and as far as the clutch pedal provides.

So my question is: What other tricks are there that would help disengage the clutch? It doesn't seem like I can get anything in through the starter hole to pry it loose. Any tricks of the trade are appreciated! If you think I'm screwed and have no other option but to split the tractor, I'd appreciate knowing that too. Thanks!

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Paul Leske

10-27-2006 07:36:09




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 Re: sticky clutch in reply to 5NSlezWI, 10-26-2006 09:14:00  
You just found out the hard way that splitting the tractor without changing the clutch, pressure plate, bearings and seal is "penny wise but pound foolish."

There is no time like now to tackle this job: mowing season is over and snow is a month away if you are in the upper midwest. I usually time such jobs in between mowing and plow seasons. That way if I have to order a part I am not in a rush.

You know, the hardest part in doing a chore like this is in getting started. You can try some of the tricks suggested but you are only forestalling the inevitable.

I am done with my pep talk....now have at it! ;-)

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Jim.UT

10-26-2006 13:56:22




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 Re: sticky clutch in reply to 5NSlezWI, 10-26-2006 09:14:00  
Here's a pretty slick fix from the archives. It was posted by John Bower, aka the Old Tractor Guy (tOTG) earlier this year.



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souNdguy

10-26-2006 11:06:44




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 Re: sticky clutch in reply to 5NSlezWI, 10-26-2006 09:14:00  
Clutches stick from rusting to the flywheel, from oil making it sticky.. or from the pilot bearing siezing to the shaft.

Any of the three could have happened.

Leaving it pblocked down for a day may help. Alternately.. you can block it, engage pto, and start the tractor with a pto load.. like a rotary mower to try and 'shock' it loose. Otherwise.. all the ideas the others sugested are good.

Soundguy

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old

10-26-2006 10:37:20




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 Re: sticky clutch in reply to 5NSlezWI, 10-26-2006 09:14:00  
One way to pop it loose is to start the tractor in gear in an open area where you can safely drive it around for 30-60 minutes. Easy to start one in gear by grounding the wire that goes to the starter button. Then just drive it around with the pedal down till it pops loose. I've seen the pop loose in 10 feet or 2 miles all depends on how stuck it is. Just be sure theres a lot of room and nothing to run over if you do drive it because you will not be able to stop till the clutch come loose or you turn the engine off

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5NSlezWI

10-26-2006 16:10:49




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 Re: sticky clutch in reply to old, 10-26-2006 10:37:20  
Thank you everyone for all the advice! I took it for a drive and sure enough...after about 1/4 mile it let go. It was still sticking, so I removed the starter and sprayed the brake cleaner once again. I think that it wasn't disengaged when I initially tried this because it works great now!

I think I'll try drilling that extra hole so I have a direct shot to the face.

After my recent work, my 2N is, at least for the moment, leak free and the clutch works! Quite rewarding, since it has been years since I could say that!

Thanks once again for all the feedback!

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Ross Pugh(NC)

10-27-2006 06:53:46




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 Re: sticky clutch in reply to 5NSlezWI, 10-26-2006 16:10:49  
Ye don't have to remove the starter to get spray on the clutch & pressure plate. On the right side of the bell housing is a teardrop shaped plate with a screw holding it on. Just loosen this screw and rotate the plate to expose the teeth of the ring gear on the flywheel. Direct ye spray can into the clutch area in this hole. Beats the he!! out of removing the starter just to spray it.



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Roger in Iowa

10-26-2006 09:41:31




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 Re: sticky clutch in reply to 5NSlezWI, 10-26-2006 09:14:00  
Is the cotter key in the hole at the bottom of the clutch housing free or is the hole plugged up. It should have let any spray, water, etc, out.

If anything comes out of the hole, it may help with the diagnosis of your problem.

I drilled a hole in the bell housing area to spray cleaner onto the clutch components and have not had a problem since. If yours is a side distributor, you already have the hole on the right side of the bell housing.

May have to heat the clutch parts by slipping the clutch once you get it freed up. Need to burn (cook) all the materials off the flywheel, clutch disk and clutch pressure plate. Don't over do it. Then there should be no problem.

Good luck,
Roger in Iowa

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