Cracked block?

Your problem really isn't the crack you see - it is the cracks you DON'T see. My 48 8N had a big "Y" shaped crack on the side of the block that was brazed when I bought it. Since it did not leak, I did not negotiate the price (which was STILL too much I later learned). I am rebuilding this tractor now over 3 years after buying it and my machine shop called me up to come take a look at some issues after he vatted it. The circles in this pic shows the internal cracks that were leaking. There is another identical crack leading into the #3 cylinder as well as the one you see here on the #2 cylinder.

The block was cracked due to freezing water. Not only does it crack on the outside - but many times on the internal surfaces as well. Antifreeze is not kind on main and rod bearing surfaces - my crank was already turned 20 under for the mains and 30 under on the rods. I had to grind to 30/40 under respectively now. I gave up on the block and found another used one with no cracks. Could mine have been repaired? Yes - but at a high cost. As it was, it still cost me $250 for the used block.

If you take the chance - negotiate like you will need to replace the block plus the labor it will take.

Just my $.02 learned the hard way.

Dan

There are a lot of tractors out there
in the $2500 RANGE.

I was going to do the "JB weld (tm)" trick. But, why hide the defect? However, for reselling purposes, I guess it would be a good thing to do.

Depending on the price that you are being asked for the "N", you can always JB weld it later.

Hope this helps. John,PA

If you plan onkeeping the tractor for a long time, the final investment should be worth it.

When it comes to cracked blocks, even though someone would JB weld the crack, isn't the block "still cracked"?