2N Still Won't Start

Have replaced everything except the ignition resistor, cutout relay, and ignition switch (but have jumpered it out).

Voltage at front mount distributor is 6.2V and varies to 3.4V when cranking. After cranking, the voltage sometimes goes back to 6 and other times goes to zero.

Appears that something may be shorting out but don't know what it could be except something internally in the distributor.

All connections have been gone through and cleaned "bright and tight"

The reading you get at the coil's top primary terminal WILL vary after each cycle of cranking, depending upon whether the engine come to rest at a position with the breaker points "open", or "closed".

If the engine is at rest, with the points "OPEN", you will see full battery voltage at the coil's primary terminal.

If the engine is at rest, with the points "closed", the voltage will be lower, 'cause there's current flowing in the circuit, and there is voltage drop across the ballast resistor ahead of the coil.

If you follow old's advice, and bypass the ballast resistor, just bypass it for not over a minute or so.

If you connect full battery voltage to the front-mount coil, and the engine is at rest, with the breaker points CLOSED, the coil will IMMEDIATELY begin to heat up. If you diddle around a bit, before cranking the engine, with full power to the coil like that, it will QUICKLY overheat, and be damaged, as well as beginning to overheat and burn the breaker points.

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