53 Jubilee still not running (Part 2)

Just to recap:

Was running great. Then while idling it just stopped. Now, starter engages but tractor won't run.

Here's what I had already done:

Checked fuel flow at port on base of carb....good flow.
Pull and clean carb with carb cleaner...no obvious fuel varnish found.
Cleaned sediment bowl and screen.
Changed spark plugs (Autolite 216, gapped 0.025)
Had battery checked and charged at auto store.

It still would not start. So, here is what I just did:

Checked low voltage to 12v coil. It is 11.85v.
Pulled #4 spark plug. Faint smell of gas in chamber and on spark plug from attempted starts. This makes me feel I don't have a fuel delivery problem.
Held spark plug against bare engine. Hit starter button with ignition key on. No spark.
Used a cheap Harbor Freight 12v 'spark plug tester'....no light from tester bulb when cranking engine.
Pulled main coil wire and held about 1/16" from bare metal portion of engine. No "jumping spark" when engine cranked.
I then ran out and bought another 12v coil! Ran back to the tractor and in the dusk tried the new coil....no start :-(
I tested the resistance on the spark plug wires and coil wire with my Ohmmeter. Virtually no resistance recorded for any of the wires.

I examined my distributor cap and rotor. They look virtually brand new with no wear on electrical contacts.

And, for those who don't like the idea of a Pertronix electronic ignition....I removed the Pertronix and put my point/condenser back in. Gapped to 0.025....no start.

What else can I do????

I need this tractor running but am at a loss. It has run great with good oil pressure (40psi while running).

Always turn the gas off when the tractor is not in use too for the same reason. If you park it with a full tank of gas and the needle sticks in the carburetor it could be that the next time you go to start it the crankcase can be completely full of gas along with gas on top of the pistons causing liquid lock and a dangerous fir hazared not to mention the possibility of broken pistons and bent rods or broken crankshaft if radical means are used to try and turn the engine with liquid lock.

Zane

I do smell a bit more of a gas smell when I go out to the tractor when it has been sitting for several days. But this could simply be the fact that I'm working in closer proximity to the engine.

I did remove the air cleaner hose. It had a film of fuel on the bottom of the hose. Not even enough to cause a drip. Since the engine wasn't turning over do you think this is an acceptable finding?

I'll be going out in the next hour to perform some diagnostics on the ignition system with my multimeter.

Paul.

• Hobby farm

Paul.

When the Points are Closed you "should" read Battery Voltage ~12 Volts. This means that the coil is indeed the LOAD and points are providing a good ground. If you read less than battery,
like 10 volts, you have unwanted resistance

When the points are OPEN you "should" read 0 (Zero) voltage. If you read any voltage you have a short to ground between the coil and the Points. (Wire to case/condenser/etc)
(If i was a betting man, your problem is a short where the coil wire goes through the distributor)

Those two measurements will find 99% of problems in the primary circuit if the coil is good.

Hope This Helps,

I'll give this a try later today.

Paul.