Maybe its because........

If you see 2.05V on the neg side of the coil, you have problems in the primary circuit. Like was already pointed out, this wire should be open or grounded, by the points. If the points are open, it should read full system voltage (12V+). When the points are closed, you should read zero volts. This leads me to think your points are dirty, pitted, oily, or otherwise encumbered with some resistance between them when they're closed.

Yet, you say you have spark from the ocil wire... If that's so, I think your distributor is out of time and the rotor isn't lining up with the cap terminals when the coil fires, resulting in no fire at the plugs.

Just my $.01, cheap at half the price...

(GOOD GRIEF!!! I can't even proofread anymore.)

If you have a multimeter set it to ohmmeter mode. Attach one lead to the negative post of your coil where the low tension wire is attached. Now, with the touch the other ohmmeter lead to the wire nuts that attach the wire at the outside of the distributor. You should have no resistance. This shows you have in intact wire leading up to the distributor.

Now touch the lead to a bare area of the distributor housing. The resistance should be infinite. If it is low, you have a short like I did.

If there was no short you can continue to trace the circuit with the ohmmeter up into the points continuing to look for breaks in the conductance.

BTW, if there is a short at the housing (and since the points base plate attaches to the housing), you'll have equal voltage on both sides of the points. So, there is no opening and closing of a circuit at the points....and no triggering of the high tension ignition circuit (i.e., no spark from the coil and no spark at the plugs).

Good luck,

Paul.

Check the voltage at the (-) side of the coil, which is connected to the distributor's points/condensor.

With the points "open", you are looking for full battery voltage at the coil's (-) terminal.

With the points "closed" you are looking for ZERO Volts (at the most, a small fraction of a Volt) at the coil's (-) terminal.

With the engine being cranked by the starter, a test light placed between the coil's (-) terminal and chassis ground should flash "ON" and "OFF" as the points rapidly open and close.

Make these simple tests, and post back.

Most likely culprits are the "feedthrough" insulator in the distributor "shell", where the connection to the points/condensor passes into the distributor, the points, the condensor, or high resistance (a poor connection) in the wire between the coil's (-) terminal and the distributor.