Sleeve removal - 8N sidemount

Now on to the 8N block, and the weld removal method. 1st off, mine does not have the .090 sleeves, but something thinner, as the pistons were marked .083, I think this was the piston used in the Merc flathead engine. I set the wire feed welder to give ~100 amps and kept the nozzle moving side to side to give almost 1/2" wide bead. I was concerned about the possibility of burning through the sleeve and zapping the block. In the end, I didn't zap the block, but sure got close. After the sleeves were out, they sure had curdled metal on the outside surface of the sleeve where each bead was laid. I would not want to try this method with a stick welder, as they can cut in for much deeper penetration. When I started, the block was about 30 deg F, and was warm to the touch (but not HOT) when finished. I could hear the metal "talking" and cracking as it cooled. As I was welding on the #2 sleeve, some liquid began oozing out between the outside of sleeve and block bore, not much, but was noticable. I sprayed each sleeve w/WD40 as they cooled and then took a piece of 5/8" soft steel rod as a punch and tapped easily on the bottom edge of each sleeve until all 4 were out. None fell out, but came with easy tapping w/ the punch. At first, I thought that I could tap the sleeves out the bottom...> wrong! They interfere with the main bearing journals. But it was easy to tap them the other way and out the top.

Now I see a 1.25" long crack in the #2 bore that is parallel to the top surface of the block about 1" below the top deck. The bore metal is slightly pushed into the block. Did I create this crack with the heat of the bead on the sleeve? I would guess that if I cracked it from the welding, it would not be pushed in, and would run vertically, somewhat following the weld bead heat. Did the slight liquid that formed at the block/bore line while welding indicate previous antifreeze seepage through this crack?

What to do now? I think that I can still use this block. I know that I need to mike the bore to be sure the new sleeves will fit. Assuming that is OK, I remember reading that some of you have recommended a sleeve sealer product. Will the standard .090 thick sleeve have sufficient heat transfer at a spot where the block bore is not tight against it? Am I going to have a troubled engine if I proceed to use this block?

I'd like to post a photo, but I am critically low on the learning curve as to how....down where the curve is flat against the x-axis.

Sorry this is so long.

Paul in MN

Zane

The sleeves would not have come out the bottom anyway since there is a lip on top of each sleeve.
Use Locktite sleeve retainer when you go back after removing all the oil from the new sleeve and the block. I've done quiet a few over the years and actually started doing it with some of the first epoxy glue ever made in the early 60s and even that worked.

Zane

Ozlander

HTH,
Dan

TOH

Thanks for the encouragement. I actually did tap the #1 sleeve down more than 1/2" when its bottom edge hit the main bearing support lip. So these sleeves do not have the top lip. I think this means that the block has been overbored, and thus now the cylinder walls are thinner than stock. I'll measure them tomorrow.

I have worked on the blocks of other 8 & 9Ns and have seen the top step groove you refer to. But not on this one!

All 4 sleeves were tight and showed no evidence of having moved, and no ridge, and no real scratches. But the 4 pistons were marked 083 and were 4 ring pistons and had plenty of carbon and crud and rust on the rings. I did not mike the bores, but I do not want to build this engine with 4 ring pistons. I want it to be stock or as close as reasonable.

I'll post the bore diam tomorrow.

Paul in MN

Paul in MN