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Delilah update

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Dan

01-01-2007 15:10:43

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Started Delilah back up today after putting the hydraulics all back together and adding 5 gallons of 90w Mineral Oil. This time she started right up on the first pop and I got her to idle down to 580 RPMs - I think the engine is just tight and as it loosens up it will run better. Anyway - she runs like a sewing maching with no valve clatter or any other disturbing noises - like a well tuned machine. It is music to my ears. I am seeing small spots of oil floating in the radiator, I am hoping it was just the head needing to be retorqued after I ran her awhile. I'll keep an eye on that. Oil pressure is 35 on a rev when hot, and around 15 on a slow idle hot. I am guessing that is normal(?)

Anyway - the hydraulics were unresponsive for about 10 minutes, so I was starting to worry that I would have to pull that heavy lift cover back off when all of the sudden, the arms raised right up. I guess it took awhile for that cold 90w to get worked in good. Anyway, it raises and lowers like a champ and feels nice and tight - I can't wait for the leakdown test. I did not use Zane's jig for this install - instead I found a website that shows you how to set the hydraulics correctly usinig a builders square to position the tip of the lever arm when it is off the tractor. Worked perfectly - and the first time as well, best of all - it was FREE!

Now it is on to painting the areas I did not get good on the first go round, and touch ups - I should be done in a few weeks so I can set her back out at my property and pull the 1939 9N in that spot.

Dan

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FarmerDawn

01-01-2007 19:27:34

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Re: Delilah update in reply to Dan, 01-01-2007 15:10:43

Boy, I tell you what ... (now that I am finally down to reading the actual post that Hobo and Ron were responding to, that I apparently responded to as well before I read it, by virtue of the 2007 gremlins) (whew!) ... After reading all this I'm seriously starting to think that when the time comes to put Arthur's engine all back together again, I will have an engine-bee. You can all come and help, and then we'll have barbeque! LOL

Ooooooh. "I'll know more by then. I'll know more by then. I'll know more by then..."

Dawn

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Jimmyjack

01-01-2007 18:16:56

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Re: Delilah update in reply to Dan, 01-01-2007 15:10:43

Is this a typical reading of oil pressure on a rebuilt engine? On the last two I have seen considerably higher pressure with virtually no change (maybe 5 pounds) when hot. In fact I was worried at the time that it might be too high. I considered all my options and decided to be happy and ride it out. So far so good. But there has to be a reason, be it tolerances, oil, relief valve etc.

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Dan

01-01-2007 19:01:24

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Re: Delilah update in reply to Jimmyjack, 01-01-2007 18:16:56

Not sure, as this is my first 8N engine rebuild I have done. I will add though, that when the pressure dropped to 15 lbs. the engine was running so slow it was near dying. I do see the pressure reading move considerably as I increase RPMs though. It always did this before as well. All tolerances were within spec - I checked it with Plastigauge, but I would love to hear from more experienced people as to if this is a normal situation.

Dan

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Hobo,NC

01-01-2007 16:51:28

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Re: Delilah update in reply to Dan, 01-01-2007 15:10:43

400 RPM izz to low enny ways, maybe iffin yer engine wuz at operating temp I could live wif it most likely not, until the engine gits HOT it will stall at idle cold if set to 400 rpm. So I kin idle it down after a min. or so of run time 6 to 700 suits me just fine, its not good to lug a engine enny ways especially a new or rebuilt engine Less you are going thru the process of seating the rings witch izz not done set�in in the shop

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Dan

01-01-2007 17:04:23

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Re: Delilah update in reply to Hobo,NC, 01-01-2007 16:51:28

You make a good point. My break in proceedure is usually one 15 minute run to heat up the engine and check for leaks, noises, head gasket problems, check for oil pressure and charging. Shut it down, tighten the head nuts and let it sit for a day or longer. Then run it for 30 minutes varying the RPMs pretty constantly. Fine tune the carb and ignition settings, check for valve chatter and smoking, then double check radiator for bubbling or presence of oil. Shut it down and re-torque the head nuts again to 55 lbs. Let it cool down another day or so. Then, I take it out and run it through the gears. A few times leave it in high gear going slow and apply both brakes to make it lug a bit. Run it for about 30 minutes to an hour - if everything is still good then I consider the rebuild complete.

I specifically request cast iron rings due to the fact they seat faster and I do not use my tractors many hours a year. They should still outlast me. I spray a bit of wd-40 in the cylinders just before I fire it up for the first time to help the seating as well (something my machinist told me to do).

Dan

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Hobo,NC

01-01-2007 18:01:20

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Re: Delilah update in reply to Dan, 01-01-2007 17:04:23

talked me into it and I am a hard sell

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Chad OH

01-01-2007 16:34:21

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Re: Delilah update in reply to Dan, 01-01-2007 15:10:43

Congrats Dan.
Now your only dilema is which tractor to try out your 'new' impliments on, ha ha. (Post some pics when you do)

-Chad

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John (TR)

01-01-2007 16:18:50

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Re: Delilah update in reply to Dan, 01-01-2007 15:10:43

Was just about a year ago I started Hybred for the first time, kind un climatic. Just started and ran. Sure is fun admiring your work. Post some photos some time

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NC8N

01-01-2007 15:29:39

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Re: Delilah update in reply to Dan, 01-01-2007 15:10:43

I hope it works out for you. Sometime ago, A friend tried rebuilding his 454 CI big block Chevy. Did pretty well for a first timer but had a small problem. When he got the heads on and went to crank it over with the harmonic balancer to adjust the valves, it wouldnt move. Tried using a breaker bar, still wouldnt move. He calls me up and I go over. When I asked how he installed the rear bearing on the crank, he said he just placed it on the crank and tightened it. I knew that was the problem. Ripped the heads back and rolled the motor over on the stand. Removed oil pan and rear bearing(Upper half). The problem is that when you put in the crank, you have to tap the crank all the foward towards the front of the motor. Make sure all the main bearings are snugged. Then tap the crank all the way to the back of the motor(Only a few thousandths). When you do that, it will flush the rear bearing thrust surface. Once we did that, it spun over beautifully. Always remember that the upper and lower main bearing that has the thrust surface on it has to be flushed or it will bind and when you run it the first time, will chew up the thrust surface and send metal into all the bearings. Good luck to you...

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Hobo,NC

01-01-2007 16:21:34

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Re: Delilah update in reply to NC8N, 01-01-2007 15:29:39

First time I ever herd that �flush� term used, guess I have been rite lucky cuzz I never knew I wuz flush� in the rear bearing thrust surface when I checked the end play when I laid the crank in the saddles and again after I nailed it to the block. Although I am not gonna argue it cuzz fer sure it would not hurt to do this flush�in deal I have a hard time believing that�s what had that Rat locked up. Just out of curiosity did you think to check crank shaft end play before you took it back down to flush the crank

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NC8N

01-01-2007 16:46:14

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Re: Delilah update in reply to Hobo,NC, 01-01-2007 16:21:34

Hi Hobo, When I was in automotive school, they taught us about that and was very intense on it. You can either tap the crank foward or both directions just to make sure the upper and lower halves are flush with each other. Then check your end play. Here is a link I found that may give you more insight about it

Thrust bearing flushing

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Hobo,NC

01-01-2007 17:57:13

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Re: Delilah update in reply to NC8N, 01-01-2007 16:46:14

That wuz quite a interesting read, At first I had to think of what you posted and that why I could not argue �flush�in� it did make since so why not set the crank in the saddle�s. I spend quite a lot of time on professional auto repair sites and have never saw this posted. You see from time to time were a crank thrust problem arises and repeats it self. Seems it always izz blamed on the trans by the rebuilder. Enny one who has tried to werk out a problem with a major builder (not installer) know�s if they find a possible problem that the installer/mechanic kin not argue they will stand firm on their claim as to why their product failed and it wuz not their problem its yours. Then lead you to believe enny help they give izz cuzz they like�ya, Goodwill they say only iffin we don�t have�ta pay�ya fer our screw�ups. I am rite in the middle of a claim again a rebuilder rite now. Usually I try and not say enny thang that will make me spend a day in court but looks like I am gonna do just that just cuzz they have disputed my ability to diagnosis one lifter that will not pump up. On a rebuilt engine supplied from a rebuild why should I have to diagnosis a lifter that will not pump up, its been run fer 2 hr. 55 lbs of O/P, it still has not pumped up and izz soft wif ezsessive valve lash, all the rest are good no adjustment kin be made it has a bad lifter. The replacement engine started up and never a kick�a�dee clack The rebuild sends a nutter engine all izz good now and they will not pay enny labor cuzz they state they have meet their obligation by replacing�in the engine. BTW the engine came from Advance auto Rincon izz the name of the builder. Lucky fer me the customer brought the engine so I have not lost enny thang. That�s one reason I like to hang out here cuzz you never know when sumone will post sum good info. On the professional sites iff�in I say iff�in all they want to do izz beat�ya in the ground cuzz they feel you are tearing down the profession, fer sum reason they all think they are doctors/teck�nic�ions best I kin tell.

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Dunk

01-01-2007 19:15:43

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Re: Delilah update in reply to Hobo,NC, 01-01-2007 17:57:13

It's them danged little ole SQLs agin I bet cha.

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Russ SoCal

01-01-2007 19:15:01

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That's APRIL 1st, Kim in reply to Hobo,NC, 01-01-2007 17:57:13

Not JANUARY 1st.
R ;o)

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ron,ar

01-01-2007 19:19:54

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what a relief in reply to Russ SoCal, 01-01-2007 19:15:01

I was beginning to think only a couple of us was seeing this, everything we post on this thread also posts below on the Delilah Update thread. weird. I bet it won't take long to eat up a page or two at this rate.

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FarmerDawn

01-01-2007 19:36:37

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Re: what a relief in reply to ron,ar, 01-01-2007 19:19:54

"What a relief" is right! Although I still didn't quite understand what you meant until I read farther down the page (still playing catch-up on the posts) and got to Dan's original post. Then, reading that, suddenly there's our conversation all over again! Which means, I suppose, that this comment will show up down there as well.

So ... anyone reading Dan's update who wonders what the heck is going on, scroll up about half a page and check it out. :-) Ron and I didn't just start to have a bizarre conversation out of nowhere. And we're both perfectly sane. Really. (You think they'll buy that, Ron?)

Dawn

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Mr. Bill No. Mn.

01-01-2007 19:41:13

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Re: what a relief in reply to FarmerDawn, 01-01-2007 19:36:37

I don"t bye it at all. lol

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well if thats true

01-01-2007 19:44:44

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Re: what a relief in reply to Mr. Bill No. Mn., 01-01-2007 19:41:13

you must be crazy along with us, 'cause I see your name down below along with ours:^)
ron,ar

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Mr. Bill No. Mn.

01-01-2007 19:53:55

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Re: what a relief in reply to well if thats true, 01-01-2007 19:44:44

Ya I found it too. I think things are starting to stutter around here.

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FarmerDawn

01-01-2007 20:21:27

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Re: what a relief in reply to Mr. Bill No. Mn., 01-01-2007 19:53:55

Too much partying last night. That's my theory. :-)

I only had chocolate. What were YOU guys doing, hmm? LOL

Dawn

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FarmerDawn

01-01-2007 19:05:19

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Re: Delilah update in reply to Hobo,NC, 01-01-2007 17:57:13

Well, I'm confused. When I opened your post, Hobo, it read (on the main page) that it was about the hydraulics problem and said it was posted by rogerg. Now I see he posted just above this line with that problem, but then I see below your post (that says it's his) ron,ar posted and the subject line is in regards to Dan's Delilah update. And that's what it says at the top of your post when I open it.

If I was a drinkin' woman, I would think I'd overdone it on New Years' Eve! LOL Nothing you did, I'm thinking . . . but it sure beats me how it worked out you posted this way!

Dawn (I sure hope it doesn't look that way on just MY computer, or you'll all think I'm gone nuts...)

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ron,ar

01-01-2007 19:07:39

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Re: Delilah update in reply to FarmerDawn, 01-01-2007 19:05:19

Nope, same here too. I have had a drink or two tonight but I didn't cause this, and I ain't seeing double yet, quick, how many fingers am I holding up? Thats what I thought:^)

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FarmerDawn

01-01-2007 19:10:18

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Re: Delilah update in reply to ron,ar, 01-01-2007 19:07:39

How many fingers? Uh ... green? :-)

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ron,ar

01-01-2007 19:14:24

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Re: Delilah update in reply to FarmerDawn, 01-01-2007 19:10:18

you ARE smart, I only typed in black and white, how did you guess that?

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FarmerDawn

01-01-2007 19:18:38

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Re: Delilah update in reply to ron,ar, 01-01-2007 19:14:24

Well, you know ... now that I'm a mechanic and all, I just know all KINDS of things!

Except how a carburetor works. Or the electrical system. LOL

Dawn

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ron,ar

01-01-2007 18:16:48

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Re: Delilah update in reply to Hobo,NC, 01-01-2007 17:57:13

Hobo, just one thing I will add:
When we suddenly decided to go from being Mechanics, and became Technicians, we dropped down several notches in the views of most folks.
I remember when being a mechanic was a respected trade and the Mechanic was worth something, to himself and his community. Now that we are all "technicians" things have changed somehow. Part of it has to do with the fact that society has come to expect us to know it all and be able to fix everything right, every time, the first time, which does not always happen. Part of that is because with all the newer complex,electronic systems and higher technology changing all the time it is harder to keep up with. Still, we are expected to fix it all, and get the blame when we don't, no matter who built the engine/transmission or electronic component. Things have sure changed since I started wrenchin' in '65

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what the heck happened?

01-01-2007 19:03:17

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why is this here? in reply to ron,ar, 01-01-2007 18:16:48

How did these posts get up here on a thread by theirselves instead of below where they were?
ron,ar

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FarmerDawn

01-01-2007 19:06:23

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Re: why is this here? in reply to what the heck happened?, 01-01-2007 19:03:17

SCARY! LOL!!!

Ron, maybe we are in the Twilight Zone. (cue doo-doo-doo-doo music...)

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ron,ar

01-01-2007 19:09:01

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Re: why is this here? in reply to FarmerDawn, 01-01-2007 19:06:23

I think I will go lock the doors, something ain't right here, LOL

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FarmerDawn

01-01-2007 19:11:16

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Re: why is this here? in reply to ron,ar, 01-01-2007 19:09:01

ROTFLMAO!!!

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not only that

01-01-2007 19:05:30

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Re: why is this here? in reply to what the heck happened?, 01-01-2007 19:03:17

But it double posted here and below at the same time. 2007 is looking like a weird year from the start:^)

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Dan

01-01-2007 16:52:36

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Re: Delilah update in reply to NC8N, 01-01-2007 16:46:14

My machinist told me the same thing. This is why I kept spinning the engine over with every bearing and component I added. If something was going to lock up, I wanted to have the engine already open and know exactly what caused it.

Dan

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NC8N

01-01-2007 17:05:58

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Re: Delilah update in reply to Dan, 01-01-2007 16:52:36

Thats right, dan..Dont want to put it all together and then have to rip it apart again for something that could have been avoided..

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