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The moving ammeter is a sign there is primary igntion current, with the "make and break" action of the break points "chopping" it. Since you are not now seeing the ammeter moving, there's NO primary current, and, therefore, no spark. If the ammeter REALLY doesn't move when the key is switched "ON" and the engine is cranked, an "open" is indicated in the primary igntion system, rather than a "short". As the others say, it could be a current source problem, such as a broken wire, bad ignition switch, or open resistor. The coil could have failed "open", the coiled "spring thingy" on the bottom of the coil may not be making contact with the special brass screw in distributor it seats down into. The spring can be stretched a bit, if this is the case. The next possible problem in line is if the thin copper strip connecting the terminal at the top of the breaker plate is broken, making an "open circuit" between the terminal and the breaker points. That leaves checking for proper breaker point gap (.015"), and points that are not conducting when closed, due to an oily film or oxide on them. Try cleaning them by repeatedly drawing a strip of white cardstock through the closed points to burnish them, followed by a turning the distibutor shaft or engine so they open, spraying them with electrical contact cleaner to remove any "lint" and debris, and allowing them to air-dry while still "open". Good Luck!
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