Sediment Bowl

=Vic=
Bear Gap, PA

Click on the link and put 2N9155B in the part search.

It is a NH dealer, but others know lots more than I.

• FUEL BOWL

FILTER, FUEL 2N9155B

Fuel Sediment Bulb & Valve Assy., Years: 01/01/1939-12/31/1952

1) were it fit’s the tank 2) were the bowl fit’s the body 3) were the furl line connects 4) were the shut off goes into the body

Yow will have to figger out were it leaks, A new OEM or a aftermarket kin leak you have to figger out were it leaks. Problem izz a little gas will spread out so fast you kin not see were it coming from and its clear. If you have sum compressed air you kin blow around it till you find the leak. You kin turn the fuel off and shoot sum talcum powder, baby powder on it turn the fuel back on to see iffin you kin find the leak. If you have a copper fuel line that’s a big problem cuzz the nut will bottom out before it seals the flare.
If its leak’in around the shut off you kin tighten the stem retainer nut to squeeze the pack’in around the stem. Fer the bowl git a neopem gasket to replace the cork. I have had only one aftermarket that gave me a fit on the leak’in deal and I had to thghen the stem nut so tight it izz a bear to turn on and off. I spec the original seal behind the stem nut izz leather like all the other original seals. Leather does swell when it izz wet. So when I git one that leaks its just a nutter day in paradise fer a mechanic. You did not say were it leaked and wish fer a lick and stick it deal good luck.

Maybe soon I can think to git a picture.

Due to yer post I may have to take it off and get a picture of it.

I made it, and I thank I also did the double flares on it (for some reason I believe that true), I have been sitting here for over an hour trying to remember how I did that, and my CRS won't let me.

I do agree that it can be hard to do with copper and a flaring tool, because the steel flare is a double flare (out and back in).

You make me think too much sometimes, and that is a GOOD thing!!

• Flaring tool kit

I don't know if I did it or not, but I was just thinking you could grind the bottom few threads off of the flare nut and seal a single flare copper tubing.

Ahhh Redneck Engineering at it's finest.

But I have been running my copper line for nearly 20 years with out a leak.

I will have dreams (read nightmares) about this all night.

Works for me.

Dan

A plumbing supply house should have graphite impregnated packing string to go under the nut to stop the valve stem from leaking.

It should cost $1 or less fo a package that will last the rest of your life.

$2.54

• Graphite String Valve Packing Carded

George