Ford 2N Rims....

But I recently took the rear axles out, rebuilt the brakes (even relined them myself!-interesting process...) and replaced the rear wheel bearings and seals. I re-assembled the rear axles, and now onto the rims....this is where I am at a stand-still.....

The 4 carriage bolts that run through a "box channel" ring in the rim are there minus 1. the 1 allowed lots of water for years to get in a rot it off. the outer "shell" of the rim is near perfect. the channel piece is rotten into the area where the tube touches. I am seriously considering sealing it off and casting lead into the cavity on both sides. I estimate about 600 pounds of lead per side INSIDE THE RIM. and to keep the lead from ever "accidentally" flinging out into the rubber tube, I will rivet strap supports across, and use galvanized steel to surround and rivet to the rim. this I hope should prevent the lead from ever flinging out.

Now I know this makes the rim have a permanent internal wheel weight, making the rear of the tractor exceptionally heavy, but the question here is I guess is if anyone have ever done this, and if they have, was there any serious negative effects on the tractor or tread? is it a good idea?

I like the idea of not having to lift heavy wheel weight into place (I don't yet own a forklift) but I also abhor the idea of trying to mount tires that weigh an excess of 900 pounds each to the rear of the tractor, and if I ever get a flat tire, this would really be bad news.

My wife typically drive this tractor every year from Wasilla, Alaska to Palmer, Alaska to the Plowing Days for the Antique Power Club of Alaska, Branch 52 of EDGTA. the trip takes 2 hours one way, and is about 20 miles one way- traffic included.

would the said wheel weights severely affect performance of the tractor? I could use some good advice from those who have been here on earth longer than I have.

and "NEW" Rims are going to set me back about $180.00 EACH. I am already dolling out $140.00 for tubes. the tread on my tires is in excellent condition, that's the kicker.

Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

The Lead is Free. I just have to melt it and cast it into the rims. the rims have been previously "Patched" with fiberglass, and the other with BONDO. I note that Concrete Absorbs water and retains it in the outer surfaces, and this is bad for rust. I was considering plastic, rubber, and other polymers. but the conclusion to cast metal into it came from the fact that polymers can degrade (except for the super expensive ones) and crack, and once they crack, the chances of puncturing the tube is greater than if it was a cast piece that won"t freeze and crack under stress (pressure, weight...etc....).

I have given this a lot of thought, and for the only people who sell tubes for this around here have to order from out of state, and I have to drive 85 miles R.T. to get them once they arrive. the New Holland Dealer: Pioneer Equipment Inc. is the only place locally that can procure one.

I"m sure with a credit card, and online searches I could get one cheaper, but My wife and I refuse to have a credit card for the simple reason that the interest rates of 38% standards means that a balance of $1000.00 I will have to pay $380.00 in interest, and it"s simply not worth it at all.

The lead like I was saying is Free. I have 1600 PLUS pounds of it, and all I have to do is melt it down and cast it into the rims. this is easier than a person is lead to think it is.

I was asking, because I am not certain if the axles can handle the weight, or if the bearings can handle the torsion that comes from it, as well as any imperfections causing a vibration (even at low speed can cause serious damage) that would necessitate me replacing the wheel bearings every year. and that is a chore. not something I want to do every year. (unless I was paid to do it!)

I have many implements for this old machine, and slowly they are being restored as well.

I have found that a PTO/3-PT Rototiller works very well for chopping hard pack snow prior to plowing, it also works well prior to snow-blowing. also for the snow blowers, I note that to save yourself the agony of many shear pins, I cut the rotors down a bunch. see when a small rock finds it"s way between the rotor and the back case, it blows a pin. I take a bunch of hand-held snow-brushes, and take the brush part off. those are now installed onto the rotors. this provides a nice seal between the rotor and the metal, and prevents the rocks from jamming and blowing a pin.

Just a lesson learned.

Thanks a bunch for all the suggestions. I think I am going to still go the Lead route, unless it will destroy the bearings and rear axle shafts.

Thanks! And my 5 year old Nephew DaCoda LOVES This web site!

I have given this a lot of thought, and for the only people who sell tubes for this around here have to order from out of state, and I have to drive 85 miles R.T. to get them once they arrive. the New Holland Dealer: Pioneer Equipment Inc. is the only place locally that can procure one.

I"m sure with a credit card, and online searches I could get one cheaper, but My wife and I refuse to have a credit card for the simple reason that the interest rates of 38% standards means that a balance of $1000.00 I will have to pay $380.00 in interest, and it"s simply not worth it at all.

The lead like I was saying is Free. I have 1600 PLUS pounds of it, and all I have to do is melt it down and cast it into the rims. this is easier than a person is lead to think it is.

I was asking, because I am not certain if the axles can handle the weight, or if the bearings can handle the torsion that comes from it, as well as any imperfections causing a vibration (even at low speed can cause serious damage) that would necessitate me replacing the wheel bearings every year. and that is a chore. not something I want to do every year. (unless I was paid to do it!)

I have many implements for this old machine, and slowly they are being restored as well.

I have found that a PTO/3-PT Rototiller works very well for chopping hard pack snow prior to plowing, it also works well prior to snow-blowing. also for the snow blowers, I note that to save yourself the agony of many shear pins, I cut the rotors down a bunch. see when a small rock finds it"s way between the rotor and the back case, it blows a pin. I take a bunch of hand-held snow-brushes, and take the brush part off. those are now installed onto the rotors. this provides a nice seal between the rotor and the metal, and prevents the rocks from jamming and blowing a pin.

Just a lesson learned.

Thanks a bunch for all the suggestions. I think I am going to still go the Lead route, unless it will destroy the bearings and rear axle shafts.

Thanks! And my 5 year old Nephew DaCoda LOVES This web site!

Your idea of using lead to fix it would most likely work but so would doing it with concrete??? Either way it would make the wheel way too heavy for any practical purpose or use.

You also need to get one of my ZANE THANG position/height control devices for that tractor. It does not have that capacity made into the lift. See the link below.

Zane

I don't know about Alaska, but the price of lead in the lower 48 is around 75¢ per. lb. so you're looking at around $900 for the lead if your estimate is close. Makes $180 for new rims sound pretty good huh?

Since you realize the lead alone won't restore the structural integrity of the rims, I'd say even if the lead were free it's not worth the trouble. IMHO. If it were me, I'd go the new rims and have them filled route and use all that time on something more productive.

And I wouldn't worry about driving down the road with lead in the rim, couldn't be any worse than driving down the road with 3/4-full water in the tubes.

You've obviously given this some thought. But have you priced "lead" lately? It just might be cheaper to buy new rims.

And as for weight for pulling traction, I've even seen external honest-to-god CONCRETE cast in rims for weight.

Will that additional weight do to yer pulling bracket? And iff'n you really do need additional tractive weight, use sugar-beet "rim-guard". It is also anti-freezed, and won't RUST yer new rims like Calcium Chloride (CaCl).

Donnno about yer new-tube quote of $140. I just looked it up, I paid Les Schwabb Tire $23 ea for tubes for my non-standard 14.9x24 ag-bar tires on my eazy starting 6-volt 8N. (and they came out to the ranch and picked-up my water-weighted tires and changed them at their shop in town, NO WATER, I did carry back the much lighter changed tires in back of my pickup)..... ..the amazed Dell