|
Joe..... ..would it surprize you to learn the Marvel/Schebler TSX carb is eminently rebuildable? many times. Read the link for really good instructions. You write..... "We believe we have a problem with the float sticking and not floating like it should"..... ..yep, thats a common problem with newbie carb rebuilders, you need to get the float-valve SEAT really tight ('cuz it leaks underneath the seat) using a BROAD-BLADE hollow ground screwdriver. (caution: normal screwdrivers are TAPERED or WEDGE shape and will hogg-out the straight-sided brass float-valve, ruining it) Heck, a broken piece of hacksaw blade gripped with vise-grips can work, be creative. GRIND yer BIG screwdrive blade, gitt the idea? You write..... "every once in a while we get gas coming out of the air exhaust"..... .that would be carb air INTAKE, but thats ok, yer carb newbies..... the reason you have gas coming out the carb mouth is.....(are you ready for this?).....you're FLOODING your carb because your float valve ain't sealing. (tip: twirl your pointy float valve in its seat to polish it up to make it seat better) One last comment on your carb float. Sometimes and this is rare, they develop a "leak" and no longer "float". The float check is to SINK it in glass jar full of clear HOT-WATER, and watch for fine stream of bubbles. Simple, eh? Leaky floats are non-repairable by novice metalsmiths. Replacement float $20. (not cheap) Remember, yer side-pointing idlemix is BASSACKWARDS, out for lean, IN for ENRICH. Always adjust the idlemix for max idle rpms, NOT smoothest. Understand? My carb adjustments usually end-up about 3/8-turn idlemix, down-pointing mainjet about 1-1/2 turn; your final adjustments will be different. And much to the dismay of gov't environmental bureaucrats, ya gotta adjust each carb slightly differently for each engine it is used on. If you don't understand these instructions, ask for clarification..... ..respectfully, Dell
| 
