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No Spark - 8N

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AnvilheadTX

02-19-2007 21:40:30




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To make a long story short, I am redoing my front mounted 8N. I bought it in the current non-working condition. Seller said it was sitting in grandpa's barn for 10 years. I have rebuilt the carb, cleaned out the gas tank, cleaned the sediment bowl, cleaned the fuel line, rebuilt the distributor (rotor was missing), replaced the coil, spark plugs and battery (still 6 volt). Last Saturday I bolted everything back together and was diappointed to find out it would still not start (no sparks to plug). I did not have the time to change out the ignition, but will do so and have been told this could be a problem. However, here is the weird thing, the tractor does NOT consistently turn over when the start button is pressed. I have to believe this indicates something somewhere is wrong? Any suggestions? Alot of this tractor appears to be original and is in pretty good shape. The wire/harness is in good shape. Oh....and when I bought the tractor, the lady selling it said that it "missed on 5 and 6"? I am still looking for the 5th and 6th cylinder, but so far, no luck - haha!

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Ntoxicated

02-20-2007 07:46:10




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 Re: No Spark - 8N in reply to AnvilheadTX, 02-19-2007 21:40:30  
Ken S. I know what you mean , I went into an auto zone and asked for a Motorcraft FL-1A oil filter . The kid behind the counter asked me "What does that fit , I have to look it up in the computer" I pointed to the display behind him and said that one there. So I am sure he would never find an "Al437"



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Dell (WA)

02-19-2007 22:32:04




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 Re: No Spark - 8N in reply to AnvilheadTX, 02-19-2007 21:40:30  
Tex..... .you've got WEAK ELECTRICS caused by ....are you ready for this?.... RUSTY sheetmetal joints in the battery tray. Get rid of that 5"-flatbraid positive ground strap and replace it with an 11"-long flatbraid ground strap bolted to one of your CASTIRON steering gearbox attach bolts. Understand? (this will also improve yer weak sparkies too)

Then unbolt yer 8"-long starter motor bolts and slide yer starter out about 1/4", now WIRE-BRUSH the starter endplate GAP. Now yer 6-volt starter will just ZING.

Understand, the 3-terminal starter solenoid little middle terminal is GROUNDED by the BIG thumb button by the tranny shifter. Sometimes, it doesn't always make a good ground when you push on it, but that is the least of your worries. (tip: you can also use a screwdriver to ground that 1-ground wire at either end for starting) MAKE CERTAIN YOUR TRANNY IS IN NEUTRAL!!!

And surprizingly enuff, with old non-running 6-volt engines, a 12-volt JUMPER DIRECT to the starter motor STUD (flat copper strap) doesn't hurt the starter motor and really spins the engine for better "first-starts". Starter motor don't care 12-volt battery polarity.

Many times, OLD non-running engines need rings re-sealed for MORE COMPRESSION. Squirt about 1-oz regular engine oil (or automatic tranny fluid) to re-seal the oilrings. Crank yer engine a couple of times NO SPARKPLUGS to redistribute the oil. Now NEW AutoLite AL-437 sparkies, gapped 0.025".

tip: ALWAYS have a spare dry clean set of sparkies to REPLACE anytime you have starting troubles 'cuz you've FLOODED yer engine with INVISABLE no-lead gasoline. no argue, replace. After you get your tractor running, you can replace 1-sparkie at a time, and let the HOT ENGINE clean and dry the contaminated flooded sparkie.

You need to gently stretch yer squarecan ignition coil danglin' springy-thingy for more certain contact with the hollow-head condenser attach screw.

You need to make a CALIBRATED sparkie tester by taking any old sparkie and bending the side electrode out for FULL 3/16" gap. Clamp the tester metal shell to enny convenient ground and plug enny sparkie wire to top of tester. Now ignition ON, crank yer starter motor and watch yer calibrated tester. Do the sparkies jump the gap with "blue-snott" authority? or are they a yellowish-orangish wimpy excuse? (n.b....my eazy starting 6-volt 8N sparkies will jump a full 3/8" gap)

Iff'n you been muckin' with them handy-dandy carb tweek'ems, DON'T!!! Iff'n ya did, bad boy (grin) Try resetting the side-pointing idlemix to 3/8-turn and the down-pointing mainjet to 1-1/2 turn to gittcha started. Final adjustment is MAXIMUM idle-rpms, not smoothest idle. Iff'n you need more carb tips, ask..... ...HTH, Dell

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AnvilheadTX

02-20-2007 07:45:12




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 Re: No Spark - 8N in reply to Dell (WA), 02-19-2007 22:32:04  
Excellent list of things to do. I can not remember where the battery ground runs, but it is not an old scholl flat braided job. You may very well have tipped me off, since the cruddiest item on the tractor is the battery tray! If it is grounded to the tray, then there could be my problem. I am fired up (sorry the pun) to run through the list of other possibilities. Never thought that it could be something like the coil spring not stretched. Good things to run through. I did have the jumpers hooked up to teh starter the first night I had it. However, this was prior to discovering there was no rotor, etc.. The 12 volts did seem to turn it over good for the first go round.

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Ken S.

02-20-2007 06:47:08




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 Re: No Spark - 8N in reply to Dell (WA), 02-19-2007 22:32:04  
Once again I would like to point out there is NO SUCH THING as "Autolite AL437" spark plugs. It's "Autolite 437". No difference to us, but big difference to brainless parts store computer that can't make the connection and tells the brainless salesperson "no matches found".



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