Brake conversion

What I am wondering is has anyone converted a 9N to hydraulic brakes with both pedals on the right like a modern machine. My thought would be to use 2 pedals and 2 master cyliners and instal wheel cylinders in place of the mechanincal cams.

What say you all? Has this been done already?

Take Care,

ARB Putt Putt Putt..

TOH

I would also like to reduce the amount of input pressure required to brake the old girl.

I understand - that was my suggestion - two brake pedals mounted in the vicinity of the right foot peg and a single clutch pedal on the left foot peg.

"I figure that running brake lines is easier that making a linkage that gets around the hinney."

A simple turnbuckle linkage similar to the OEM clutch linkage seems pretty simple. Much more so than re-engineering the backplate on the brakes! Run linkage rods down each side of the tranny to the existing brake shafts. Mount a short lever arm to each of them to connect the linkage. Use a short shaft crosswise over the top of the tranny to link one brake pedal on the right side to the brake linkage on the left side. You can probably use the tranny cover bolts to mount support brackets. That's pretty much how my Kubota is designed except the crossover shaft goes under the tranny and is supported by the running board brackets.

"I would also like to reduce the amount of input pressure required to brake the old girl."

Again - understood. The existing drums and linings are quite substantial and capable of generating a lot of braking force. As I said the main problem with all of the N's is not so much the mechanical advantage of the mechanism but rather the direction (angle) in which the operator has to apply pressure. Straight down just doesn't let you use your leg strength advantageously.

The mechanical advantage provided by the simple lever and pin linkage on my Kubota is quite substantial - far in excess of that provided by the OEM pedals on the 9N. I've operated some pretty good sized machines that had very good brakes without the benefit of hydraulics.

TOH

TOH

Soundguy

You have a real project there!! duey

That long brake lever turns the brake shaft which has a cam on the end of it which in turn exerts pressure outwards to push the brake shoe against the drum. There is a Huge mechanical advantage there.
So the question is: would your neat little master cylinder INCREASE that mechanical advantage?
If it did not dramatically increase the outward pressure of the shoes against the drum then all your work would be for naught.
I am not saying it wouldn't increase that pressure because I don't know. I'm just saying it would be worth KNOWING if and how much it increases before I bought any parts.
Hope this makes sense.

If I start with small 3/4" master cylinder and go with the largest diameter wheel cylinder I can find. That might give me enough but I will be doing the math before anything gets torn apart or purchased.
I may have to work with motorcycle components to get a small enough master cylinder to get the ratio that I need to make this work.

The Disk option that was mentioned has some good points. Mostly that they won't get iced over. I could go with fairly large disk to get some extra torque on the wheel. Disk breaks also have a larger piston area in the caliper.

Lots of things to mull over before next snow season.

To recap I have what I believe is a slightly caniballized '39 9N. Still 6 Volts and runs sweet and starts good. I just wish the brakes were handier. All my snow plowing is on a side hill. So brake steering is important to me.

I will come around more often maybe even say a few words now and then.

Take Care,
ARB Putt Putt Putt...

Wheel cylinders would be easy. Not sure where or how you could hook up a master cylinder.

I was thinking about something like these.