|
Jim..... ..general consensus of opinion for general tractor hauling around and other stuff is 16-ft, flatbed, 7000gvw, dual axles, with electric brakes on all 4-wheels. And while yer tractor will fit on a 10-ft trailer, IT WON'T BALANCE and yer tongue-weight will FISH-TAIL yer rig down the highway. NOT SAFE!!! 16-ft gives you space for implements and to "balance" the front hitch for about 500# of tongue weight. (tip: check yer owners manual for legal hitch weight stuff) I have a 3/4T Dodge Cummins Diesel pickem-up that never grunts when hauling 7000# trailers. (I know, I have them public scale wt certified, prevents insurance hassles) 7000# more better'n 6000# gvw trailers and don't cost that much more to buy or license or insurance. How to tell yer hitch weight? Measure the height of the rear bumper unloaded and then move the tractor forward until the bumper is about 4-inches sunk-down from unhitched. Trailer bed should be about LEVEL when loaded. I have 2" & 4" drop balls plug-ins so trailer levels out. (I also now have 4-different trailers with different sized balls that I haul) Simple, eh? Chock yer wheels and use 3-tiedowns. Tie-down yer front-axle and STRETCH yer rear-axle/implement with come-along; and then OVER-THE-TRANNY, strapper down so it don't bounce off'n the bed. I've been stuck in too-many traffic jambs where an improperly tied-down backhoe (and the difference between backhoe and tractor is???) has bounced OFF the trailer going round the cloverleaf. You'd think "professionals" would have the tie-down scheme figgered out by now. I just bought my first tractor flatbed trailer, $2000 new. (I'd been renting or borrowing neighbor's for years, whatta pain, nice neighbor though) I've been looking for 16ft-used trailer for years but nobody ever re-sells them. Gotta be one of the "best" business going. Never have "used" trailers to compete for sales like the used automobile market. Everybody justs parks them in their backyard for "next-time"..... .Dell
| 
