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Ignition switch / starter problems?

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RH2506

06-04-2001 11:38:41




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I have an 8n that has been converted over to 12 volt that I have never had problems with. Last evening, I went to start it and got nothing but a short burst of clicking. Cleaned the batt. posts and cables-nothing. Checked the battery with my voltmeter and appears to be charged (but, what should my reading have been?) I am a fledgling at mechanics and poor in diagnosing problems. After cleaning battery and cables, now it won't do anything at all. (no clicking) Is it poss. that my ignition switch or starter are bad? What else could it be? How do I check for a bad starter? What would be the normal progression of checking this problem out? It has a side mounted distributor. ANY help is greatly appreciated. Thanks to all.

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Claus

06-04-2001 13:22:54




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 Re: Ignition switch / starter problems? in reply to RH2506, 06-04-2001 11:38:41  
The starter relay is energized by grounding the small terminal in back of the relay. (different from the automotive type where you would connect 12 volts to it) You should at least hear a click of the solenoid pulling in when you ground the terminal in the back. If you do not hear a click then the connections from the battery may be bad. Clean the terminals again, and do not forget the ground cable. Since you have a voltmeter, you should read 12 volts on the back terminal of the starter relay. This connection is internal to the relay and represents the low side of the solenoid coil. Usually, clicking of the relay indicates poor cables and or battery condition.
Happy Motoring
Claus

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Dave Smith Clause is Right

06-04-2001 14:50:47




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 Re: Re: Ignition switch / starter problems? in reply to Claus, 06-04-2001 13:22:54  
I had forgoten Ford did it that way on the N tractors. Using a remote ground for the solinoid.
Dave <*)))><



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Dave Smith

06-04-2001 12:25:29




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 Re: Ignition switch / starter problems? in reply to RH2506, 06-04-2001 11:38:41  
A 12 volt battery will read 12.6 volts with a full charge. Take a small jumper wire, Hook 1 end to the Positive lead on the battery. Touch the other end to the small terminal on the solinoid. If the solinoid clicks and the starter turns check the starter button switch. If the solinoid clicks but the starter does not turn take a car (heavy) jumper cable . Hook one end to the positive terminal on the battery and touch the other end to the starter terminal coming out of the solinoid. If the starter turns replace the solinoid. You used to be able to buy rebild kits for solinoids but I dont think they make them rebuildable any more. If the starter does not turn check out the starter. All this is asuming you have a full charge in you're battery.
Dave Smith <*)))><

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TimK

06-04-2001 12:22:15




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 Re: Ignition switch / starter problems? in reply to RH2506, 06-04-2001 11:38:41  
No, no. Can't check a battery like that. A voltmeter will only tell you that it has current, but it may only be enough to run a wristwatch. Take the battery to a reputable auto parts or service store and have them run an appropriate load test. They'll also be able to tell you if it has a bad cell etc. My $.02



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Dave Smith

06-04-2001 12:40:54




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 Re: Re: Ignition switch / starter problems? in reply to TimK, 06-04-2001 12:22:15  
Tim, A battery with a bad cell. Warped plates or shorted plates will not take and hold a full charge. Over charging will warp the plates and short them. Also a build up of oxidation in the bottom of a battery will short them out. Tractor batterys have a short life span just from the enviroment they are used in. Vibration, running over rough ground etc. A load test will verify that the plates are shorted. Over cranking will also cause the plates to warp.
Dave <*)))><

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TimK

06-04-2001 13:56:29




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 Re: Re: Re: Ignition switch / starter problems? in reply to Dave Smith, 06-04-2001 12:40:54  
Dave: Couldn't have said it better. FYI - Had a friend that worked at an auto parts store. He would regularly tell me of customers who would by starters and solenoids when the battery was the culprit, and vise versa. Of course that store did not take back electrical parts.



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