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Distributor

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rodger in bama

06-04-2001 19:24:08




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I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO GET MY 2N STARTED FOR 3 DAYS. I TOOK THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT AND REPLACED THE CONDENSER SINCE IT WAS'NT FIRING. WHEN I TURNED THE DISTRIBUTOR UPSIDE DOWN A THIN STRIP OF METAL CAME OUT. IT LOOKS LIKE IT CAME FROM THE SPARK ADVANCE MECHANISM. I PUT THE DISTRIBUTOR BACK IN AND IT FIRED BUT WON'T START. COULD THE BROKEN PART BE THE REASON.ALSO CAN YOU BUY A REBUILD KIT FOR THE DISTRIBUTOR OR DO YOU HAVE TO GET A NEW ONE.

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llamas

06-05-2001 04:01:36




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 Re: distributor in reply to rodger in bama, 06-04-2001 19:24:08  
Oh, yes, I know exactly what your problem is.

The "Thin strip of metal" which fell out of the advance mechanism is one of the advance weight springs. Earlier advance flyweight assemblies used a flat spring system to keep the flyweights biased inwards. These were riveted to a cutout in the flyweight. Over time, the rivets work loose and/or the springs get old and crack and fall off.

It'll fire, all right, but as soon as it fires, the advance system jumps to "maximum advance" since there is no spring on one or both weights to hold it in, and it won't stay running.

Sorry about that.

I don't think it's practical to repair unless you have the materials and facilities to make a new spring (after measuring the old one), drill out the rivet and replace it. And, if it's that worn, likely the flyweight pivot bushings and pins are all wore out too. This will lead to irregular advance action and rough running.

New flyweight/auto advance assemblies are available, they cost about $60. These use a coil spring system which does not fail in this way. If you choose to go that way, I'd spring the added $5 for the two bushings that the assembly runs in. These are easy to replace and will ensure an advance assembly that runs smooth and tight.

The rebuild is easy to do with common shop tools - the only thing that may be tricky is driving the new bushings out and in.

HTH

llater,

llamas

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