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1941 Ford 9N dumb water pump questions

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Reid F.

03-20-2007 09:44:34




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Two ignorant questions: 1) I pulled the water pump, but there still appears to be a 1/16" steel plate with a crescent hole fitted over the studs on the block -- pop that off and clean/gasket it too, or is it something that won't/needn't come off? and 2) there was no thermostat when I broke things down; mount the replacement pointy end toward the engine? It looks different than the one in the manual. Thanks guys.

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Bob

03-20-2007 09:57:17




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 Re: 1941 Ford 9N dumb water pump questions in reply to Reid F., 03-20-2007 09:44:34  
Yes; remove the thin steel plate and clean up the surfaces and replace the gasket behind it

The thin steel plate comes with the new water pump; if that is what you are doing... replacing the water pump.

The old thermostats pictured in the manuals used a bimetallic "spring" as the heat-sensitive element whereas the ones now on the market use a copper bulb with a heat-sensitive "wax pellet" inside.

What is important is that the heat-sensitive element; the copper bulb; faces the cylinder head.

(Sorry; my keyboard is all out of commas!)

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GB in MT.

03-20-2007 10:38:16




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 Re: 1941 Ford 9N dumb water pump questions in reply to Bob, 03-20-2007 09:57:17  
It is called putting brain in gear before typing question.
My second ?? should have read: Was THE previous thermostat question (pg. 3) only for the Naa.? Sorry about that. Gary



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GB in MT.

03-20-2007 10:10:43




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 Re: 1941 Ford 9N dumb water pump questions in reply to Bob, 03-20-2007 09:57:17  
Bob; What heat range is better?? I've only seen the 160* THermostat offered for 9n & 2N !!???
Was your previous post on the prior thermostat ??, only for NAA's? Gary



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Bob

03-20-2007 10:32:36




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 Re: 1941 Ford 9N dumb water pump questions in reply to GB in MT., 03-20-2007 10:10:43  
There's 2 "schools of thought" here. The "originalty guys" insist on the 160 or 170 degree thermostats 'cause that's original.

How do you use your tractor?

As far as the engine is concerned it will almost certainly operate longer; cleaner; and more efficiently at 200 degrees than at 160 degrees.

Of course; the ambient temperatures in your area have something to do with thermostat selection; too.

There's a lot of difference between a tractor plowing snow @ zero degrees and a tractor plowing all day long in 110-degree heat!

In the COLD weather snow plowing scenario; you'd be better of with a HOT thermostat to get the engine as warm as possible to for cleaner combustion and to help evaporate sludge-causing moisture out of the oil.

In the HOT weather plowing scenario; you'd be better of with a cool thermostat that will be fully open LONG before the engine begins to overheat.

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GB in MT.

03-20-2007 10:47:40




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 Re: 1941 Ford 9N dumb water pump questions in reply to Bob, 03-20-2007 10:32:36  
Thanks for the exp. and for being a mind reader,
Bob!!

Gary



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Bob

03-20-2007 10:54:49




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 Re: 1941 Ford 9N dumb water pump questions in reply to GB in MT., 03-20-2007 10:47:40  
I'm gonna slip on my asbestos shorts and get out of here (to work) before I get "flamed" for my comments but I believe that information would apply to MOST engines.



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mountainibis

03-20-2007 09:53:22




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 Re: 1941 Ford 9N dumb water pump questions in reply to Reid F., 03-20-2007 09:44:34  
It's been awhile since I replaced my water pump, but I'm pretty sure that plate with the crescent-shaped hole in it should come off, as the new gasket needs to go between it and the engine block.

The thermostat design that is sold now is different from what was used when the manual was printed. The new-style thermostat should be placed with the pointy side towards the radiator.

The thermostat tends to slide in the hose. Some use a hose clamp in front of it (toward the rad.) to keep it from sliding. I was too cheap to pony up the 50 cents for a hose clamp, so I used a cable tie. So far, so good.

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Bill Priday--south Texas

03-20-2007 21:13:25




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 Re: 1941 Ford 9N dumb water pump questions in reply to mountainibis, 03-20-2007 09:53:22  
Yeah, a 50 cent hose clamp can cost one heck of a lot of money after driving a 65 mile round trip to get one!

I've used all sorts of oddball, goofy stuff to keep from having to drive to town!

Bill



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