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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Wiring

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Guy from tex

03-20-2007 21:45:20




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Men, I need some advise. I still can't get the old 8n to fire.It's a 49 8n with front mount distributor. I took key switch off.Checked poles with key off, light did not come on. with key on, light did come on so I am asumming The switch is good.? I hooked the battery cables back on and tested switch with a volt meter and get no voltage with key on. I am trying to see if I am getting voltage from the Key switch to the coil. I guess I am doing something wrong checking for voltage. With a volt meter, I put the red prong on the wire at the distributor, black on I think good ground on the engine. key on, no voltage.

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Jim.UT

03-21-2007 08:44:51




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 Re: Wiring in reply to Guy from tex, 03-20-2007 21:45:20  
Put your ground lead on your supposed good ground, then put your other lead on the Neg battery terminal. You should get 6V on your voltmeter. That tells you your ground point is valid. Now go test your key switch (or any other point) using the same ground point that worked before.

I like to start with the battery and go downstream until the voltage goes away to isolate the problem.



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Marty 2N IL

03-20-2007 22:31:16




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 Re: Wiring in reply to Guy from tex, 03-20-2007 21:45:20  
Try a jumper wire across your switch. If that don't work try a jumper from negitive on battery to coil. Don't run it for long or you will burn out your coil. Sounds like its time to do a good clean up of all the wires.



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Dell (WA)

03-20-2007 22:27:52




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 Re: Wiring in reply to Guy from tex, 03-20-2007 21:45:20  
Tex..... ...that is only a semi-good check fer yer weaksister ignition switch. A "test-lite" doesn't measure the "quality" of the internal contacts. Howsomevers the cheapest voltmeter is good-enuff to measure the "quality" iff'n yer points are CLOSED. You should have ZERO VOLTS LOST across yer ignition switch. Its the LAW!!! Kirchhoff's Law.

And you can measure this volts loss 2-different ways. First you haffta know yer points are CLOSED. And that is semi-difficult with yer problem. Eaziest way is to "pretend" yer points are closed with a jumper-wire to ground from yer square coil top-terminal. Then clippie yer el-cheapo voltmeter across the ignition switch wires at the 3-terminal ballast resistor connecting block. NOW quickly turn yer ignition switch ON. Yer "infamous ballast resistor" will gitt HOT (not to worry, its supposed to do that with the points closed) Iff'n yer voltmeter reads ENNY-VOLTS across the ignition switch, ITS BAD. Quickly turn yer ignition switch OFF so you don't burn-out yer ballast resistor.

You need to double-check the ignition switch volts by a different technique (why? 'cuz its the LAW) This time connect POSITIVE lead to ground, and with the NEGATIVE lead, measure the volts on BOTH sides of the ignition switch OFF. You should have BATTERY volts on the bottom "T" switch terminal and NO VOLTS on the ballast resistor terminal. Now turn yer ignition switch ON, you should have the SAME BATTERY VOLTS on each side of your ON ignition switch.

...AND... yer ballast resistor should gitt HOT!!! NO HOTTIE, yer wires between the ballast resistor and the coil 1-terminal may be OPEN (ie...BAD) ...or... yer ballast resistor is burned out like a light-bulb.

Don't forget to remove yer "pretend" ignition points jumper wire.

Now then, theres abuncha other stuff to check, but that'll wait until you verify yer weaksister ignition switch ($10, cheap) is good..... ..Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

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A. Bohemian

03-21-2007 08:46:20




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 Darn Radio Lawyers! in reply to Dell (WA), 03-20-2007 22:27:52  
It would be difficult to over-emphasize the importance of the advice Dell is giving you.

Allow me to re-iterate:

(1) Buy a good Volt-Ohm-Meter (VOM). Most of us prefer the analog ones when we can find them. They are more rugged than the digital ones, whose FET input transistors are easily fried by high transient voltages such as those in Kettering ignitions. This in spite of the fact that when they first came out with the digital ones they sold them by claiming the LCD would be MORE rugged than those fragile old d'Arsonoval meter movements.

Many people never learn to use a VOM and go on happily operating their equipment, successfully keeping it running.

And I respect the art of being able to throw together a bulb and some wire and troubleshoot a system, especially in a road emergency. I am a practitioner myself.

But when I am at home I ALWAYS reach for the VOM. After using one a while I think you will, too. (2) Ohm's Law: I=E/R, where I=current, E=voltage, R=resistance. Mnemonic, used by generations of hams, Signal Corps Recruits, and EE majors: the Indian sees the Eagle flying over the River. Most people know this one, but for some reason fail to apply it.

A practical example: in this case, one could set the VOM to read voltage. If ANY voltage drop is measured across the switch (which should be zero ohms resistance), it is probably bad and needs to be replaced.

(3) Kirchoff's Laws:

(a) In any series circuit, the sum of the IR drops must equal the sum of the source voltages.

(b) In any parallel circuit, the current into any one branch point of a circuit MUST equal the current out of the branch point.

Hope this helps.

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