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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Coil/resistor

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Rich Sheriff

03-21-2007 06:53:14




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Did the 12 volt conversion on my 9N with the kit that uses the one wire alternator and "add on" resistor. So, have two resistors in-line and the new coil that came with kit. Have ~4 volts at the coil. My question is: is this a 12 volt coil, then? Could I have just stuck with my old coil from the 6 volt system that was on in 1940?

Also, any thought on why my alternator needs to be run up to high rpms to begin charging, each time?

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Rich Sheriff

03-21-2007 08:43:46




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 Re: Coil/resistor in reply to Rich Sheriff, 03-21-2007 06:53:14  
So, let me get this right. Take out the add on resistor and likely only suffer less coil/point life? What"s the advantage of higher voltage to coil? The tractor runs fine, now, with both resistors in place.

As far as the charging, I wait "til warmed up to rev up to charging point.



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Bob

03-21-2007 09:27:47




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 Re: Coil/resistor in reply to Rich Sheriff, 03-21-2007 08:43:46  
My statement was that using NO resistor with a "so-called" 12-Volt coil will reduce coil and breaker point life.

WITH the use of the OEM ballast resistor you should be "all good".



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Dell (WA)

03-21-2007 09:21:46




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 Re: Coil/resistor in reply to Rich Sheriff, 03-21-2007 08:43:46  
El Jeffie..... ..use ONLY 1-RESISTOR with the new 12-volt squarecan ignition coil. It will NOT affect yer points life. Correct volts (and 3-volts to a 12-volt coil is NOT CORRECT) to the ignition coil will provide enuff hot-sparkies to overcome normal wear of both ignition points and the ever widening sparkie-gap. Right now, yer ignition points are probably in #A1-condition and yer new sparkies gap has sharp edges making it eazy for lazy and weak sparkies to jump the gap. The wear of the ignition points reduces the total sparkie volts available while the wear of the sparkie gap demands more sparkie volts. Do you understand that dichotomy?..... ...Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

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Rich Sheriff

03-21-2007 09:43:33




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 Re: Coil/resistor in reply to Dell (WA), 03-21-2007 09:21:46  
Indeed, I do. Sounds right, to me. That"s why I asked in the first place. Four volts going to a 12 volt coil didn"t seem right, just didn"t know the consequences.

Any clue why they include the resistor and don"t give any better insight/instructions?



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Dell (WA)

03-21-2007 11:54:58




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 Re: Coil/resistor in reply to Rich Sheriff, 03-21-2007 09:43:33  
El Jeffie..... ..they don't know what they're doing. They don't know electronics, they're just parts-picker per some "list". And whomever made the "list" don't know shut from shineola.

And even worse, the 12-volt squarecan coil mfgr could have made the 12-volt coil a real 12-volt coil that used NO resistor, but instead they made a 12-volt coil that needs a resistor. (theres 'nuttin' wrong with resistors, iff'n they are the correct value. Its the LAW!!! Ohms Law & Kirchhoffs Law)

And they could have "labeled" the coil too, but instead they choose to label the country of mfg. ...or... they could have used a different color of plastic squarecan ...or... made it taller. And they could have used a higher-temp potting tar. Sumptin' that would PERMANENTLY identify the coil as a 12-volt coil. The only identification is a part-number on the box. Some have a paper tag that falls off, alotta help there years from now.

Don't gitt me started on sqaurecan ignition coils..... .Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

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Bob

03-21-2007 07:19:05




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 Re: Coil/resistor in reply to Rich Sheriff, 03-21-2007 06:53:14  
third party image

1.) The "so-called" 12-Volt aftermarket coils still need some resistance ahead of them for long coil and breaker point life. Folks are having good luck keeping (just) the OEM ballast resistor ahead of the "so-called" 12-Volt aftermarket coils.

2.) It is nature of the (goofy) one-wire alternators to need to be "revved" to "excite" and begin to charge. The 10si alternators were originally designed as "3-wire" units; and the "one-wire" units are a (goofy) aftermarket creation.

As originally designed; the alternators had a connection to their #1 "switched excite" terminal that supplied a small amount of current to the voltage regulator and on to the rotating field to create magnetism to start the charging process. The (goofy) "one-wire" units depend upon residual magnetism in the rotor to generate a small amount of stator current that is rectified and sent back into the rotating field; increasing the field current (and magnetism) to the point the alternator is outputing charging current.

With the (goofy) "one-wire" units it takes SPEED to make this happen.

You could consider going to a "3-wire" unit. Easy to do and solves the "rev to excite" the problem.

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Dell (WA)

03-21-2007 08:01:29




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 Re: Coil/resistor in reply to Bob, 03-21-2007 07:19:05  
El Jeffe..... ...what Bob said.....The deceptively desirable 1-wire alternator conversion needs about 1800rpms to turn on the "goofy" internal voltage regulator. Once turned on, it will charge at near idle just like the 3-wire alternator does without "jazzin" a cold engine. I don't like "jazzin" a cold engine, do you? The 1-wire alternator conversion works great in automobile applications where you gotta rev the engine to about 2500rpms to launch the car down the road.

As for the 12-volt squarecan coil and all them resistors. Try using just ONLY the "infamous ballast resistor" without the kit-resistor. You should have at least 9-volts and ideally about 11-volts. (engine not running)..... ..Dell, a 12-volt advocate for the right reasons

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