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the N has a common sump system. the tranny, diffy, and hydro belly pump share 5 g of oil. Oem oil was a 90wt gl1 mineral oil. Modern replacement is a UTF that meets CNH spec M2C134D.. ( most utf oils met this spec ). The 90wt can still be found as gl-1 at napa as part number 65-205 for a 5g pail. TSC also carries a gl-3? oil marked for ford trannies 39-52. A gl-4 oil that is yellow metal safe.. like a penzoil gearplus lube in 80w90 will also work. There is one fill port by the tranny shifter.. and 3 drain plugs.. a pipe plug under the diffy.. start there.. then move to a 2" plug under the hydro pump. then move up to the 2" plug in the tranny. Aech of the 2" plugs has a washer under it.. you should make a new one unless the old one is pristine. You can use a veriety of things to make the new washer... thin leather sheeting, thick gasket paper, cork gasket material sheet, uh.. cardboard from a shoe, kleenex, or cerial box.. or an old innertube ( rubber sheeting ). Heck.. you can even BUY new gaskets if ya got money burning a hole in your pocket. I just use a razor knife and whatever gasket paper, rubber, cork, or thin cardboard I can find.. None of my tractors leak from drain plugs... Spec is 5g.. but most of us like to fill a tad laees, and instead pull the bottom bolt inthe right side dipstick cover, and only fill to where oil starts dripping from that hole... might be 4.5 or 4.75g or so. To test your lift, raise it and if it will stay up with some weight on it after tractor is off for more than a few minutes.. the hyd piston/cyl seal/rings are good nuff'. If it has other problems.. email us back. The entire hyrdro system ( top cover and bottom pump ) can be R&R in about 8-9 hours from pulling into the garage to backing out and srubbing up all the spilt gear oil on your wife's concrete floor.. rebuild price varies on what you need.. gasket sets are pretty cheap.. relief is pretty cheap.. new piston is cheap.. some hard parts are a bit more.. like chamber parts.. or a new cyl.. etc.. Soundguy
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