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Ot....Gravel drive....best way?

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RoNofohio

04-19-2007 09:08:50




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Does anyone else think of this site everytime a question on any subject comes up? My son is putting in a gravel drive to his cabin on one corner of my property and we are not sure about what 'stone' to order. So here I am asking on a tractor site...strange? I don't think so...

Anyway, he is wanting to order enough stone to cover a driveway about 600' long. It was covered about 20 years ago with bank run stone, but that has mostly dissappeared. Now we are wondering what is the best stone to use. He wants to order round #57 stone and I seem to think that crushed stone would be better. And is it better to put down a larger stone base. The only price we have at the moment is about $10 ton, delivered. Sounds kinda pricey, "but you has to pay if you wants it bad enough". Anyway, any info you have will be appreciated. If you need more info, just ask...thanks...Ron

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Carl (NH)

04-20-2007 15:08:16




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 Re: Ot....Gravel drive....best way? in reply to RoNofohio, 04-19-2007 09:08:50  
When I built my current house 20 years ago, they excavated some nice natural gravel from my house site and used that to build my 450' driveway which widens out considerably as it approaches my 2 car garage. Over those 20 years some of the top material has been taken away by rainstorms so last year I ordered a truckload of 3/4" crushed gravel. This is 3/4" or less crushed stone mixed with gravel, so nothing is bigger than 3/4". I spread it with my loader and it packs very well. Since your son's driveway is already established and has a good gravel base, I would think adding maybe a 2" top layer of this crushed gravel would work very well for him. Pure crushed stone is noisy to drive over and always stays loose, whereas the mixed stone & gravel that I used packs down hard and will stay put unless he has a steep slope to contend with. I don't know what your state has available. My 2 cents worth...

Carl

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StahlMaster

04-19-2007 14:57:19




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 Don't forget the fabric in reply to RoNofohio, 04-19-2007 09:08:50  
I had a 850" drive put in 2 years ago in Michigan. The drive cut through an open field. To prevent the stone from disappearing the guy who dug my pond build up a 12" wide road base along the 850" run with a slight crown to allow the snow to blow off in the winter and aid drainage. Then I had the base covered with a geo-textile fabric ($1 per foot)to prevent the stone from sinking into the base. Then came the 22AA stone, about 3 inches deep. You want stone mixed with "fines" which pack the gravel tight under the weight of road traffic. Once I"m done building the house, I"ll top the drive with limestone. Limestone does have a tendency to leave white powder on your shoes so I won"t do the whole length. The fabric was the best money I ever spent. Make sure you have proper drainage or your road will wash out. The stone and fabric cost me $3,300 including labor.

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john hunt

04-19-2007 13:37:06




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 Re: Ot....Gravel drive....best way? in reply to RoNofohio, 04-19-2007 09:08:50  
recycled roadbase..



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mad farmer

04-19-2007 13:03:50




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 Re: Ot....Gravel drive....best way? in reply to RoNofohio, 04-19-2007 09:08:50  
For the top layer I get a mix of crushed stone that's cut with ground asphalt from road resurfacing projects. When this gets packed down it's nearly like pavement and sheds water like a duck.



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old

04-19-2007 12:10:04




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 Re: Ot....Gravel drive....best way? in reply to RoNofohio, 04-19-2007 09:08:50  
What I would do is this. I would put down a layer of 2 inch lime stone crushed if you can get it. Then a layer of what is called dirty base on that. Then use it for a month or more then top that off with clean 1 inch stuff. In my area thats how we built a lot of roads, ya thats what I was doing before the doctor made me retire. I have worked on about half the major roads in this area. Shoot you can't even drive into this area with out driveing across a road I helped build unless you take all the back roads and there gravel ones

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cotton

04-19-2007 12:07:53




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 Re: Ot....Gravel drive....best way? in reply to RoNofohio, 04-19-2007 09:08:50  
third party image

I just put a new drive in to my soon to be house location, about 600'. I had a highlift cut about 6" of topsoil off then spread 2" clean (how it sales in MO.) for a base. that will put down a good base. We have been driving that in for about 6 months now and I grade around the loose every couple weeks. It is gettin nice and packed in the soil. I am about to order inch minus to top that base off which should pack in nicely since it will still have the fines. After the drive is finished it should be about the same grade as the field since I cut the six inches of topsoil out. Total cost in this area for 2" and highlift was $800. I will probaly have another 600 in in minus when done.

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Indiana Jones

04-19-2007 11:40:07




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 Re: Ot....Gravel drive....best way? in reply to RoNofohio, 04-19-2007 09:08:50  
The small crushed with powder is #73 here in central Indiana at Irving Bros. Materials. The larger crushed with powder(fines)is #53 here. I get #53 here for about $200.00 a triaxle load (about 20 tons) delivered. Last load I got was about 2 years ago, so price may have changed. I like the stone with the powder because it acts as a binder.



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Dell (WA)

04-19-2007 11:09:54




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 Re: Ot....Gravel drive....best way? in reply to RoNofohio, 04-19-2007 09:08:50  
Ron..... ..$10T is probably in high ballpark for crushed, and thats the best to use. Have the truck(S) tailgate dump it for minimum of 2-in thick bed as he drives down the road. Surprizingly enuff, ASK the gravelyard what they recommend. They know what is best for yer application. There'll be MANY MANY truck loads for 600ft. Talk to a BANK for a loan. (grin)..... .Dell



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TheOldHokie

04-19-2007 10:56:26




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 Re: Ot....Gravel drive....best way? in reply to RoNofohio, 04-19-2007 09:08:50  
If the base is soft put down 4" or so of some larger stone (around here that would usually be #2's - about 2"-3" crushed and screened limestone). Then top with a mixture of small crushed (3/4" limestone) and fines (stone dust). Around here that's called CR6. It's basically everything that gets through the 3/4" screen. The larger stuff will stabilize the soil and the CR6 grades smooth and packs under traffic. Looks almost like concrete after a bit of rain and packing. Here's one I just did last fall:

Third Party Image

If your base settles out in a year or so just retop with CR6. I paid $235 per tandem load (22T) so your $10/T price sounds OK to me. A lot depends on how far the quarry is - in my case about 5 miles. A 600'job won't come cheap.

HTH,

TOH

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Ford850

04-19-2007 10:02:49




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 Re: Ot....Gravel drive....best way? in reply to RoNofohio, 04-19-2007 09:08:50  
Crushed stone. 304's work best in Ohio for base. That will be 2" stone and smaller, all the way down to fines (dust). It will compact hard and stay solid. Once it is compacted you can add 411's (3/4" mixed with dust) for a finer top coat.



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tv4fish

04-19-2007 10:01:50




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 Re: Ot....Gravel drive....best way? in reply to RoNofohio, 04-19-2007 09:08:50  
Ron: Do they have Class 5 gravel there? That's what I would recommend. It is a crushed stone material. You want something that has "binder" material in it to hold it together. It sounds like you already have a good base to put it over. The "pit run" or "pea gravel" won't hold - it will get plowed off. JMHO



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Nick in MI

04-19-2007 09:48:28




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 Re: Ot....Gravel drive....best way? in reply to RoNofohio, 04-19-2007 09:08:50  
Crushed Concrete



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DON TX

04-19-2007 18:31:10




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 Re: Ot....Gravel drive....best way? in reply to Nick in MI, 04-19-2007 09:48:28  
I agree. I had mine laid down over 6 yrs ago and love it. We get a lot of traffic everyday and only after 2+" rains do we have problems. Potholes are easily fixed. Drainage ditches need to be redisgned or it would have had less damage. I do need to retop in the next year or so, but I don't expect to have to do any thing else for 6 or more years. Cheap and renewable.(%^) HTH
DON TX



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GB in MT.

04-19-2007 09:26:06




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 Re: Ot....Gravel drive....best way? in reply to RoNofohio, 04-19-2007 09:08:50  
First off, if you use rock on the drive, it will go away within 1 yr. or close to it. I've built many drive ways, using a base of sewer rock for the base, level it down and pack it good by driveing on it for about a month, then cover it with 3/4 minus road gravel. If you plow snow on a rock driveway, all the rock moves to the side, and you won't like that.
Spendy, yes but last a lot longer.
Ex landscape-fencer-and driveway business owner.

Gary

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GB in MT.

04-19-2007 09:59:05




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 Re: Ot....Gravel drive....best way? in reply to GB in MT., 04-19-2007 09:26:06  
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Ron; Here is a pic of my upper drive way. Been that way for 9 1/2 yrs., with little or no maintenance. Keeps the mud down when it rains or snows.

Gary



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Pitch

04-19-2007 10:49:06




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 Re: Ot....Gravel drive....best way? in reply to GB in MT., 04-19-2007 09:59:05  
I have 150 yards of gravel drivway. Not cheap. I scraped off ten inches of top soil laid down geo fabric. Then covered it with what we call run of crush. Crushed limestone #2"s down to dust have the pit get it from the bottom of the pile so you are heavey on dust.



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gahorN

04-19-2007 16:04:05




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 Re: Ot....Gravel drive....best way? in reply to Pitch, 04-19-2007 10:49:06  
Limestone (also commonly referred to as "road base"....as in railroad base...it poor material to use, IMHO. It creates white dust which will get all over everything, your cars, house, grass...where your animals will eat it and slowly grind down their teeth and suffer early demise. The BEST stuff I've ever seen and used personally is "crushed granite gravel". This studd grades well, is easy to work with, and once it's rained on it becomes like concrete. No dust. No erosion. 6 years later, it's still just fine. I"ve had to re-grade it only once after a flash flood, but it only needed minor re-levelling..didn't lose it to runoff.

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