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Weights for traction

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Nolan

02-04-2000 08:27:30




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N's are limited not by engine, but by traction. Something we all gripe about on this board, me included. Now of course, weight equals traction. But what I don't seem to recall ever seeing, is comments from people that have taken their N and added weight to it, adn how well it worked.

So what I'd like to ask for is those of you who have weighted down your tires, how well did it work as compared to unweighted tires? Big gains? Little gains? And any other observations you'd care to make on the effect of tire weight on the N.

Sincerely,

Nolan
with the spinning sliding and unweighted 8N

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ike

02-04-2000 17:54:33




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 Re: weights for traction in reply to Nolan, 02-04-2000 08:27:30  
i can't really say how much weight i've got, but... it's a 641 with filled tires, and they're low on fluid. get's good traction usually. also have a heavy 7' hydraulic dearborn front plow. adds a few hundred pounds to the front end.... helps keep it down when i'm pulling.

so, with that in mind, i've managed to drag some large tree trunks around in some sloppy conditions. best i recall is about a 24" dia. red oak around 20'long. this was done in about 6" of wet snow over another 6" of mud last spring. my method (and i've heard many differing opinions on the correct way to drag logs.... let's leave that for another time) is to use a drawbar on the lift arms, chain it up with the log and lift the front end of the log about 2". you can feel the weight shift back as the log comes up. the pull through the slop also included an intermittent stream crossing. as i crossed the ditch, the log touched ground, then the wheels spun. raised the log a bit and off i went.

so... can't really say how much weight i was using, but it really helps. oh... as for steering, the muck was too much on the hills so it was brake steering in places.

now for the disclaimers.... i pulled very gently, 1st gear, lower throttle. avoid jerking to avoid damage to the arms. one foot on the clutch at all times. one eye on the terrain ahead, one eye on the log end (to watch for snags).

for what it's worth


ike

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will eastlack

02-04-2000 14:52:54




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 Re: weights for traction in reply to Nolan, 02-04-2000 08:27:30  
Nolan
My experience with n's and i have two of them, is that added wt, whether liquid or cast iron helps significantly. My most appreciable success story is going to 13.6 rubber and filling with solution.
The bigger rubber gives a bigger foot print for traction and also holds a lot more liquid wt.



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Jim(UT)

02-04-2000 15:19:18




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 Re: Re: weights for traction in reply to will eastlack, 02-04-2000 14:52:54  
My experience is probably not applicable, but here goes: I don't have an N, I have an 850 with weighted 13.6 tires. Have not spun tires at all this winter moving snow. BUT, this has been a very light winter snow-wise and I'm sure an 850 carries a bit more weight than an N to begin with. Forgot to say, I've been moving what little snow we've received without benefit of chains, only filled tires. Maybe this helps, maybe not.

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Nolan

02-04-2000 10:22:31




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 Re: weights for traction in reply to Nolan, 02-04-2000 08:27:30  
I guess I'd better clarify that I'm not griping about showing snow around. I was meaning in general. Slipping in fields pulling a plow, slipping on hills pulling a bush hog, etc. And of course creating rutts by sinking in.

Just trying to get a feedback feel about how well added weight worked, and what problems and negatives were encountered.



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hey busdriver

02-04-2000 23:49:52




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 Re: Re: weights for traction in reply to Nolan, 02-04-2000 10:22:31  
Both my tractors have cal cl in them and did have when I bought them. I have experienced with my 8n that I never spin the tires pulling a plow or pulling my rear blade, when it bogs down the tractor stops. I know some here don't like the idea of cal cl in tires because of leaking and ruining the rims, but I think different, if it only lasts 10 years, worry about that at that time, until then get more preformance. For me it is like some people don't want to take their cars out in bad weather, unfortunately I have to go out, whether it is to work or go shopping, when my car suffers too much from bad conditions, get another one. My opinion only.
Stan

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Paul - Pine Island MN

02-04-2000 13:13:58




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 Re: Re: weights for traction in reply to Nolan, 02-04-2000 10:22:31  
Nolan: I had a 9N with CaCl in the tires and now have an 8N without. I have noticed that the 8N is
a whole lot easier on my lawn than the 9N was, which for most of my use is pure goodness. The downside, reduced traction, is very apparent as well. I have one hill that can be a problem when wet that was never a problem with the old tractor
and I dug a coupla holes rather than move stumps when I had every expectation that the stump would follow the tractor politely. I am reasonably tempted to load turf tires with an antifreeze
solution. I will not do CaCl again - I had a leak that corroded the wheel on each side - very spendy
problem. I *think* the turf tires with weight would be better than the lug tires in my use but it is a lot of money and I am about out of stumps to pull around.. I'll ponder some more.

If I did not have to worry about tearing up lawn, I would not hesitate to put an antifreeze solution in my lug tires - it really was an appreciable difference in traction for a relatively small investment. I would also rather have the fluid than solid weights. I just know that sometime I would do something stupid putting them on or taking them off - I about hurt myself dropping the weights for my little JD and they are only 50 slippery pounds and easy to get at..

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tOTG

02-04-2000 17:08:51




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 Re: Re: Re: weights for traction in reply to Paul - Pine Island MN, 02-04-2000 13:13:58  
Paul, as a test I tried both 13.6x28 turf tires and 13.6 Firestone AT Field and Road on Mrs OTG's Jubilee. 3000 pounds. I hooked to the sled 3 times on a prepared pulling track with each pair. Turf tires pulled 3000# average, bar type pulled 3500#.

Nolan, I've pulled this tractor at 3000#, 3500# and 4500# on 9.5x32, 11.2x28 12.4x28, 13.6x28, and 14.9x24 tires. As a rule, the extra weight increases the pulled percentage by about the same amount...ie if the 3500# tractor pulls 4000# = 114%. I'd expect the 4500# tractor to pull about 5100# (114%). Not all of the added weight would go on the rear wheels; I often put on one or even two sets of front rim weights to keep it down.

Best tire at 3500# is 12.4 Firestone AT Field and Road. Best tire at 4500# is 13.6 Firestone AT.

This has been my experience.

John.CO

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Steve Warfle

02-04-2000 10:01:24




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 Re: weights for traction in reply to Nolan, 02-04-2000 08:27:30  
I have a Gravel Driveway. I use an unweighted tractor without weights,or liquid, but I do have "highway" type chains. Last year it seemed I spun more, and I now realize the Zane Thang helps a lot. If I spin, I just "touch" up the back blade, which transfers the blades weight from the blade to the tires. I can have it lifted about and inch, and I get way better traction.

Next year I am going to have the driveway paved, and I am sure it will be a whole different story.

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John C. (IN)

02-04-2000 09:20:01




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 Re: weights for traction in reply to Nolan, 02-04-2000 08:27:30  
Hi Nolan:
I realize this isn't exactly the comparison you asked for...
I have a 51 8N that came with cast iron weights inside the rear rims. The good field tires are dry. Without tire chains, it spins like mad on my blacktop driveway when pushing significant amounts of snow with the relatively heavy (250 lb or so) rear blade. I was fortunate enough to find a set of used chains for it for 20 bucks and they make the world of difference. However, when they spin now, the chains do scuff and scar up the blacktop. I can live with that.
I can probably move another 50% snow load with the chains, maybe more.
Now I'm looking for affordable weights for the front 16" wheels as the blade makes the front end quite light, and I already have 80 lbs of lead hanging off of the front bumper.

Something else that helped was to wirebrush and paint the blade, then spray it with silicone so the snow won't stick front and back. When the blade was all rusty, it didn't work near as well. I also use stabilizer bars and they make a difference in how the blade works.
I hope this information helps.
John C.

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