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8N won,t start

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JimDril

04-24-2007 15:22:36




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The old 8 has been acting up lately, the engine will almost kill and then catches and runs fine. Until today, that is. It wont start at all. It turns over fine, but doesn't fire. I checked the ignition switch and it's OK. The gas flows out of the carb fine. Where do I go from here? Whats the best way to check for spark?




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A. Bohemian

04-24-2007 19:33:45




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 Unfortunately... in reply to JimDril, 04-24-2007 15:22:36  
...the only way to truely check the ignition switch that I know of is by substitution.

If you check the switch with a meter or light, you are testing its static operation. This will show a high resistance fault between the switch poles, which is a common enough failure mode, allright.

However, many times the switch fails because of dynamic current flow. The sparking which occurs in the Kettering system can induce high sympathetic voltages across the switch.

Now, the spark has more or less a square or saw-tooth wave form, which makes it behave more or less like alternating current.

This means the insulation in the switch is no longer functioning only as insulation from ground, but also as a dialectric in an ad-hoc capacitor, with a switch pole as one of the plates, and the grounded switch body as the other.

When the insulation is new and clean, that's all well and good; the switch is, after all, designed to function in this environment.

But if the insulation developes even hairline cracks or accumulates too much dirt, the high voltage induced across it can exceed the breakdown voltage of the ad-hoc dialectric, and it can arc to ground.

Once an arc starts, it sets up a low resistance path. So, the 6 or 12 volts, which couldn't cross the insulation before, can cross the now broken down dialectric.

The result; much if not all of the energy intended for the ignition is dissipated across the path created by the arc.

You can find this kind of fault with an oscilloscope if you know or can extrapolate the waveform you are looking for; but finding it with a volt-ohm-meter or light is nigh unto impossible.

This is in part because the volt meter and the light present a higher resistance path to ground than the arc; so the current goes to ground through the arc rather than the measuring device.

In addition, the duration of the arc can be very brief, adding to the difficulty of seeing it with a volt-ohm-meter or light.

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Bruce (VA)

04-24-2007 17:26:55




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 Re: 8N won,t start in reply to JimDril, 04-24-2007 15:22:36  
Is it a 6v or 12v, front or side distributor? The diagnostics are different, so make sure you tell us what it is. It takes three things for an engine to run: spark at the right time, compression, & fuel in the right mixture. Lets start w/ spark. Remove a plug, or use an old one, ground it to the head, connect a plug wire, turn the key on & crank it. If you have a fat, bright blue spark, you are good to go. If you do not have spark, post back & you will get plenty of help. Next, lets consider fuel. Been setting all winter? Water in the gas? Maybe you forgot to put Stabil in the tank & the carb is gummed up. But, first things first....remove the bolt at the bottom of the carb, turn the fuel on & check for flow. As long as the gas is turned on at the sediment bowl, you should have a good flow of fuel. Next thing, get a can of starting fluid, remove the breather hose, turn the key on & crank the engine. After it turns over a few times, spray some fluid in the carb. Leave the choke alone! If it fires but won't start.... chances are it's carb cleaning time. Lastly, compression.....while that's not the likely problem....crank the engine & put your hand over the carb. If you feel good suction, that is a close enough compression check for the time being. Post back & you will get plenty of help!

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SGN

04-24-2007 16:07:58




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 Re: 8N won,t start in reply to JimDril, 04-24-2007 15:22:36  
If you go to the search box and type in "check spark" you will see earlier posts giving all kinds of ways to do it. Lots of posts about it there. Barney



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