9N Engine Stalls

Running for about 10-15mins and stallin' is almost ALWAYS yer weaksister 2-wire ignition switch. $12 (cheap)

Semi-bad ignition condenser usually crapps out after about 1-min; ain'chur problem but could be.

Clogged fuel filters (3ea) usually sputter yer engine off in about 5-mins and refills and restarts innna'bout 10-mins. ain'chur problem but could be.

MAJOR TIP: replace the roundcan ignition coil with a real 12-volt ignition coil that uses NO RESISTORS ever. NAPA IC-14SB is recommended $15 (cheap) Why? 'cuz it also has "hotter-sparkies" too for better starting.

Did I remember to tell you to REPLACE yer weaksister ignition switch?..... ...Dell yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

Check the wire for damage.

Was the tractor converted to (-) ground when it was converted to 12-Volts... likely if it has an alternator, questionable if a 12-Volt generator was swapped in.

IF it HAS been changed from (+) ground to (-) ground, the coil's (-) terminal should be connected to the distributor's points/condensor.

To see if the spark is failing, or it is a fuel-related problem, connect one of the sparl plug wires to a "spark tester"... a spare spark plug with the gap widened to about 3/16",and it's "shell" grounded.

Watch the spark at the "tester", as the engine falters and stalls. Does it "lose spark" as it's shutting down? That will tell you where to dig deeper... ignition system, or fuel system.

Also... Is there a ballast reistor in the ignition circuit, or hopefully you have inbstalled a "true" 12-Volt coil needing NO external resistor.

I'll check the wire for damage. The tractor stalls at idle and full throttle.

The tractor was converted to negative ground, but I believe that the primary wire to the points comes from the positive coil post. I'll change thaat when I get home tonight.

I like the 'spark testor idea'. I'll do that after the coil wire swap.

We did replace the old 6V coil with a 12V version. The old voltage regulator was disconnected and replaced with a solid state ceramic block. What would the ballast resistor look like, and where in the circuit would it be? Would it cause problems if it were still present in a 12V system?

Thanks again!

What make and part # is the coil... Does it say "use WITH external ballast reistor" on the coil, or something like "No external resistor needed"?

Also, the "ceramic resistor blocks" come in many "flavors". I don't suppose you know a make and part # for that? (In other words, the resistance values can vary widely, depending upon what that specific part was designed for.)

SOME 12-Volt conversions with an alternator use a resistor in the wire alternator's #1 "switched excite" terminal.