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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Rear axle shaft...

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SCgoatfarmer

04-26-2007 07:12:21




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What a mess.

Got both my wheels off and ready to remove the bolts for the brake drum.

Couple questions....
1. Because nuts were used on the axle shafts other than the standard locking rear nut, the axle shaft threeads are in bad shape. The original replacment lock ring nuts I bought slides down to the brake drum without really catching on the threads. I dont see how to fix this without replacing the axle shafts($$$!!!) Probably $250 to replace both huh? Can the threads be fixed?
2. What kind of kits do they have out there for rebuilding/refurbishing your brakes and how much? No sense in not redoing the brakes while I am at it.

What kind of experieicnes have people seen out there with worn axle shaft threads?

Can they be tapped at a smaller size and other parts used?... probabley wont hold the torque will they?

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Dan

04-26-2007 07:27:50




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 Re: Rear axle shaft... in reply to SCgoatfarmer, 04-26-2007 07:12:21  
Save yourself some time and expense - go ahead and bite the bullet and replace the axles now. As far as the brakes, that will run you about $60 a side if you buy new springs and such after shipping. Brake pads last a LOOOONG time on these tractors and work fine as long as you don't get oil on them. As long as they have at least half of the material left, I would trim some cost here for the axle expense. I have used a propane torch to boil the gear oil out of several brake pads, wiped down with brake cleaner, and re-used. Works great.

Good luck,
Dan

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SCgoatfarmer

04-26-2007 07:42:41




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 Re: Rear axle shaft... in reply to Dan, 04-26-2007 07:27:50  
I was searching through the archives and there really isnt much saving axles once they are buggered up.

No where in the IT manaul does it say the transmission needs to be drained although the rear axel is splashed lubed.

I do not need to drian the tranny do I?

Anything else you can think to tell me before I go ahead and take out the axle shaft and brake drumn together?... large torqued nut already removed.

What about seperating the brake drum and axle from each other?.. any tips?

What about for reassembly?

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Dan

04-26-2007 10:51:52




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 Re: Rear axle shaft... in reply to SCgoatfarmer, 04-26-2007 07:42:41  
As far as seperating the brake drum from the axle, just remove the two flat head screws if they are in place (they ae not needed BTW), and turn the adjusting star all the way in to pull the brake pads away from the drum. Then, go around the lip of the drum with a hard plastic hammer and work it off the axle.

Dan



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Dell (WA)

04-26-2007 09:04:27




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 Re: Rear axle shaft... in reply to SCgoatfarmer, 04-26-2007 07:42:41  
Goatsie..... ..you write..... ."The original replacment lock ring nuts I bought slides down to the brake drum without really catching on the threads. I dont see how to fix this without replacing the axle shafts($$$!!!) Probably $250 to replace both huh? Can the threads be fixed?"..... NO, the heat-treated 1-1/4-18 threaded axle shaft can NOT be "fixxed" iff'n yer replacement nuts slide down the buggered threads. Even the 2-piece "squeezem" nut ain't that good to do that.

Byte the bullet and REPLACE yer buggered axleshaft ($150, not cheap) and BOTH YOUR HUBS. ($50, cheap) They're the reason your axlenut got loose and buggered yer axle. Your bearings are probably good but yer seals ain't. Its all in the I&T FO-4 repair manual.

No need to drain the tranny, but when was the last time you changed yer hydro-tranny oil? What about you leaky lower lift pins that are cotter-keyed inside yer axle trumpet? See where this is going? mission growth (grin)..... ...Dell

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Scgoatfarmer

04-26-2007 09:17:13




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 Re: Rear axle shaft... in reply to Dell (WA), 04-26-2007 09:04:27  
Already ordered new axle shafts... $215.Worked on my local tractor supplier and got the cheaper rate found on the Internet... not the foreign replacmetns either.

I havent taken off the hubs yet and inspected them but I suspect they will need replacing too.

The reason the threads were so worn was that nonstandard nuts were used on the axle instead of the 450 lb original torquing type. Just worn out by the play.

It is all in the IT manaual but some of it still reads like greek to me until I get in there and actually do it and understand how they all work together. Not very mechanically inclined but manuals and instructions are a must for me.

Also going to redo brakes and everything else.. you are defiently right... this thing is growing.

Appreciate the help.

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