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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Milky Transmission oil

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2Nnewbe

05-20-2007 14:02:44




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My transmission oil is milky. I have checked the archives and the shifter boot seems to be the most likely culprit but it still looks new. Can condensation cause the oil to turn milky? I just changed the oil late last year. I am not looking forward to dropping another 50-60 dollars just for it to get contaminated again. Any ideas out there?

Thanks in advance,

2Nnewbe




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Brian Bell

05-21-2007 05:38:49




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 Re: Milky Transmission oil in reply to 2Nnewbe, 05-20-2007 14:02:44  
Good tip on heating the boot in water Dell. Mine kicked my rear trying to stretch it by hand!



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Jack Lavallet

05-20-2007 17:54:27




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 Re: Milky Transmission oil in reply to 2Nnewbe, 05-20-2007 14:02:44  
Oil that turns milky is not necessarily bad. I'd suspect rainwater leaking in the shifter boot, or condensation from major temperature swings. Modern 80/90 EP lubricants can hold a lot of water - they contain dispersants - before the viscosity drops enough to be a problem. Then you might notice a sluggish hydraulic system because of loss of viscosity. Bearings can be ruined tho, if they sit in water collected below the oil, but that would be a LOT of water in the gearcase. (Yes, water is a lubricant too, but its low viscosity makes it a poor high-load lubricant. The bearing will show discoloring, pitting and maybe even rust.) Hot oils do suspend more solids, but heating the oil in a separate container will usually speed up separation of the water and the oil. (Water will be on bottom) This is a very common way industry "cleans" milky oil for bearing lubrication in very wet environments. For the cost of 5 gallons of 80/90, I think I wouldn't waste time with separation. It'll work, but its slow and messy. If the hydraulics are working OK, and there's no free water standing below the oil (run a hose to the bottom of the sump and siphon some out.), I'd leave it alone for a while.

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Henry M

05-20-2007 16:43:05




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 Re: Milky Transmission oil in reply to 2Nnewbe, 05-20-2007 14:02:44  
2N

Well if you are satisfied with the oil, except for the water in it, the water will settle out and collect on the bottom as clear water if you let it sit long enough. I don't know how long. I have tried this on the bench and it works.

Sooooo, you can drain the oil, keep it and let it settle until it is no longer milky and walla, plain oil, or I guess you could do like on the 8N I jsut bouthg after it was sitting for quite some time. When I pulled the tans plugs, the water cam out first in crystal clear form.

So one way or the other, you don't have to junk the oil, unless there is a reason besides water.

It works

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2Nnewbe

05-20-2007 15:14:44




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 Re: Milky Transmission oil in reply to 2Nnewbe, 05-20-2007 14:02:44  
This is great advice. New Boot is on the way and will play some on the tractor before changing the fluid.

Thanks Everyone for the Help!

2nNewbe



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Dell (WA)

05-20-2007 14:45:31




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 Re: Milky Transmission oil in reply to 2Nnewbe, 05-20-2007 14:02:44  
third party image

2Nnewbe..... ..did you know it is ALWAYS good practice to change oils when they are HOT??? It takes about 1-hour of running time to fully heat either yer 6-qts of engine oil...or...5-gals of hydro-tranny. Why? because HOT-OIL suspends contaminates for a more through "flush" when changing fluids.

Change yer tranny shifter rubber bootie, don't argue its BAD. ($5, cheap) tip: boil it in HOT-WATER so it will be soft and stretchable..... ..Dell

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Bob - MI

05-20-2007 14:39:07




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 Re: Milky Transmission oil in reply to 2Nnewbe, 05-20-2007 14:02:44  
Milky oil = water. Don"t know if you store the tractor outside but if so a cracked shifter boot will let the water in. Pretty easy to replace and a cheap fix.



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Bruce (VA)

05-20-2007 14:11:42




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 Re: Milky Transmission oil in reply to 2Nnewbe, 05-20-2007 14:02:44  
You probably didn't get all of the water out of it when you changed the fluid last year. A clean & water free sump is not going to fill up w/ water from condensation in one year unless you live in a mighty weird climate. In addition to the shifter boot, check the dipstick as well. You probably need to drain & flush it w/ kerosene. Remove the inspection plates & clean out the sludge by hand. Flush it w/ kerosene; some folks use a garden spray bottle. Let it drain at least over night before you refill it. Check out tips 3 & 4 for more info:

Link

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