Rear end rebuild and wiring...

Finished changing one axle shaft, all the seals, and the brakes on the rear... needed new hubs but couldnt justify more cost with only the wife just wanting to ride this tracftor a couple times a year... I might change out down the line in the future... any thoughts?

Also wired up a new wiirng harness... Dell would have been so proud becuase I didnt treat it like a chinese buffet this time... actually understood how it all wires up now (well more than I did before)... those wiring harnesses make it too easy.

Still have a couple questions though...
1. Followed FO-4 procedure for zero load on the axle bearings. Once they turned together I added another shim and then they started turning backwards. At this point I locked everthing down tight and checked again, still turing in opposite direction. Now once I got the tires on: one tire turning wouldnt turn the other one. The manaul says the tires have to be off. What gives? Is there another way to test if the rear end is put togehter right before I crank her up and ride her? Because of differential?
2. My right side backing plate was in bad shape and I had to beat it back a bit becasue appears to have fell off a jack from previuous owner. I hear a scrathcing noise when wheel is turned that I am pretty sure is due to this. Could there be another cause? I am sure it isnt the axle bearing but suspect maybe the brkae put together wrong? Or is it just bad brake adjustment?
3. This is a silly question as it seems so inutiuive to some but when hooking the connection from my wiring harness to the coil, should it be connected on the positive or negative side of the coil? Or from the distibutor to the coil should the connection be on the positive or negative side of the coil? I know it is a negative 6 volt ground electrical system but that doesnt mean I understand. I have it connected to the posiitve side as I thought a negative ground system means electons are flowing from positive to negative and that is how the coil voltage would flow too. Right or wrong?
4. FO-4 manaual shows use of terminal block. Howver, if I am not using lights or any thing else electically dirven then I do not need this temrinal block correct? It is just a connection point for other circuits?
5. Now for the question that most people here are going to cringe at... I am using a true 6 volt coil and the voltage regulator is actually regulating or protecting the coil from too high a volts? Just to comnfirm... I do not need anytype of resistor?

Q#1.....you probably had yer tranny in NEUTRAL when trying to rotate yer diffy with with yer tractor tires and the brake-drag on other side stopped the tire rotation. Iff'n it worked without yer tires, yer good to go.

Q#2.....scratching noise could be bent/warped brake backing plate ...or... could be slightly too tite brake adjustment ...or... could be outta-round brakedrum ...or... last choice would be brake-springs wrong. I wouldn't worry about it unless you couldn't STOP.

Q#3.....roundcan ignition coil polarity rule is (+) to (+); coil (+) to points which are POSITIVE GROUND iff'n yer battery (+) is connected to GROUND. Simple, eh?

Since you report yer tractor is NOT like 6-volt factory, then connect yer coil (-) to distributor feedthru to points which is (-) ground 'cuz yer battery (-) is connected to ground for NEGATIVE GROUND. Would I change back to factory positive ground? Only iff'n I were sphincterly challenged. (and I ain't)

Q#4.....ALWAYS use a terminal block, it keeps wires from danglin' and from shortin' OUT. terminal blocks are GOOD.

Q#5.....NO RESISTOR, EVER!!! with real 6-volt roundcan coil in a real 6-volt battery system.

I understand everything except one thing. You say my tractor is not set up like the original factory 6 volt. Are you saying that because the original coils were not true 6 volt coils and needed a resisitor to step down?

As far as I can tell, I am running the original elctrical set up except for terminal block and lights. Isnt it just a matter of how I ground the battery and then wire up the coil whether I am runnign positive or negative ground?

What is the advantage or disadvatage fo running positive versus negative ground with these tractors?

With my new wiring harnesses, there are no dangling wires so I didnt plan on using one.

What is it that can short out?... igniiton switch? I would have to make up more wiring and connectors to intergrate a terminal block.

As always Dell nice typing with you!

The 6-volt roundcan ignition coil uses NO RESISTOR, EVER!!! with 6-volt battery. The 6-volt roundcan ignition coils are now labeled (-) and (+). They used to be labeled (ign) and (pts) I'll let you guess where (pts) is supposed to be connected and why.

You write..... ."Isnt it just a matter of how I ground the battery and then wire up the coil whether I am runnign positive or negative ground?"..... .NO, it is NOT that simple, you haffta RE-POLARIZE yer genny/voltage regulator to match yer battery grounding polarity.

You ask..... "What is the advantage or disadvatage fo running positive versus negative ground with these tractors?"..... ..you can loose upto -40% of yer sparkies with miss-matched coil-to-battery polarity. And there is the subtle "Edison" effect that effects sparkie-gap LIFE. The Edison effect is real but really a non-issue ennymores due to improved sparkplug mfgr material used..... ..Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

Essentially, I have a 6 volt system with negative ground, no chnages need to be made to the generator, solenoid, or voltage regulator but the wiring harness must be connected to the positive side of the coil and the negative side of the coil goes to the distributor.

I beleiev I have it now.

Thanks again.