Help - no spark

soundguy

points are not opening or are not closing.

points are shorted.

points are coroded.

condensor is shorted.

Easy to check this stuff with a test lamp or ohm meter..

Or coil spring is not making good connection atop the distrib cap/distrib.

rotor is bad, or ( rarely, cap is bad.. )

Soundguy

Hmm New Distributor & Plugs! that sure covers a lot of things.

Ignition Switch or Ballast. You can Jumper those easy as they are on the same BLOCK. The Bottom Terminal is Battery & you would Jumper it to each side (in turn) of the Ballast upper terminals. The Jumper is only used to test(trouble shoot)the faulty part.

Battery Cables: The Ground Cable is the single most important connection. Remove the bolt holding the cable to the Frame, clean the Contact area on the frame to bare metal and reinstall. Remove both Battery post cable terminal's and clean, reinstall & tighten

The "Hot" Battery cable connects to the Starter Selenoid and "Shares" that bolt terminal with a Small Wire that goes to one side of the Ammeter. The other side of the Ammeter (LOAD) has a wire that goes to the Bottom terminal of the Block. "Check each of those connections".

Hope this Helps,

When the points are "open" you get full battery volts at the top terminal because you have an "incomplete circuit". When the points "close", your battery volts are "divided by both the "infamous ballast resistor" and the coil's INTERNAL resistance. Vola'.....dimmer lite and never goes out.

This is different from the traditional roundcan ignition coil with NO ballast resistor. 'nuttin' to divide the volts. Understand???

According to Hakeem's Razor, the first suspect in NO SPARKS from setting longtime is invisable corrosion between the points contacts.

POLISH the points by drawing a dollar-bill between the closed points ...or... iff'n yer really cheap, tear off'n a piece of brown paper bag and draw between closed points. FILE POINTS ONLY EMERGENCY 'cuz you'll burn the nekkidd points and need to replace'em. $10 (cheap)

2nd suspect is yer weaksister ignition switch with gunked-up internal contacts causing weak sparkies and DIMM testlite. $10 (cheap)

And FINALLY, replace yer FLOODED sparkies with new clean dry AutoLite AL-437's gapped at 0.025". Don't throw yer current flooded sparkies away, just clean'em one-atta-time, in HOT-RUNNING engine, and SAVE'em for the NEXT time you can't start. Simple, eh..... .Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister