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Pierre..... ..at least one thing is working right for you, yer "stone plug" draining yer flooding gasoline. According to Marvel/Schebler that stone-plug is a sinstered bronze filter made of very tiny bronze balls pressed together kinda "welding" them together, so it drains and doesn't suck dust into the carb. Better'n previously used felt. All up-draft carbs gotta have a drain. Sorry to be so blunt, but you did a LOUSY carb rebuild. How do I know? You can't make yer carb idle below 600rpms. Thems CLOGGED idle jets somewheres. You haffta really reem'em out with FINE COPPER wire like from shipping tag. Do it again. Yer down-pointing mainjet starts runnin' the carb at about 700rpms. And because yer engine is SOOooo good, it is runnin' on the mainjet at 600rpms. Remember idle is a SLOOOooow 400rpms. And yer side-pointing idlemix is BASSACKWARDS; out for lean; and IN fer ENRICH. Always adjust for maximum idle speed, NOT SMOOTHEST idle; MAX idle rpms. You shouldn't haffta crank fer-ever to gitt'chur engine to start. And you shouldn't haffta choke a warm engine to start. And all yer crankin' is FLOODIN' yer carb and flooding yer sparkies with invisible no-lead contamination. After yer next carb rebuild, before you try to start, replace yer FLOOD contaminated sparkies with NEW DRY CLEAN sparkies. AutoLite AL-437's gapped = 0.025". Iff'n I hadda guess, I'd guess yer strangler (choke) is in UPSIDE-DOWN and its vacuum relief flapper valve ain't flappin' open when yer crankin' causing it to FLOOD. And while you may have replaced everything just as it came out of the carb, they may have been incorrectly installed by previous rebuilder. Remember, all carb rebuild drawings LIE. Lash is correct, biggest cause of flooding is un-tight floatvalve seat. They leak BEHIND the valve. Ya really haffta HONK down on the valve seat with HOLLOW-GROUND WIDEBLADE screwdriver. Then "polish" the little black rubber tip roundy'round in valveseat so it has a ring around it..... .Dell
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